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Kargil
(2704 m), 204 kms from Srinagar
in the west and 234 kms from Leh
in the east, is the second
largest urban centre of Ladakh
and headquarters of the district
of same name. A quite town now,
Kargil once served as important
trade and transit centre in the
Pan-Asian trade network.
Numerous caravans carrying
exotic merchandise comprising
silk, brocade, carpets, felts,
tea, poppy, ivory etc. transited
in the town on their way to and
from China, Tibet, Yarkand and
Kashmir.
The old bazaar displayed a
variety of Central Asian and
Tibetan commodities even after
the cessation of the Central
Asian trade in 1949 till these
were exhausted about two decades
back. Similarly the ancient
trade route passing through the
township was lined with several
caravanserais. Now, since 1975,
travellers of numerous
nationalities have replaced
traders of the past and Kargil
has regained its importance as a
centre of travel-related
activities.
Being located in the centre of
the Himalayan region with
tremendous potentials for
adventure activities, Kargil
serves as an important base for
adventure tours in the heart of
Himalayas. It is also the take
off station for visitors to the
erotic Zanskar Valley. Tourists
travelling between Srinagar and
Leh have to make a night halt
here before starting the second
leg of their journey.
The town lies nestling along the
rising hillside of the lower
Suru basin. Two tributaries of
the Suru River that meet here
are the Drass and Wakha. The
land available along the narrow
valley as also the rising
hillsides are intensively
cultivated in neat terraces to
glow barley, wheat, peas, a
variety of vegetables and other
cereals. Kargil is famous for
the fine apricots grown here. In
May the entire countryside
becomes awash with fragrant
white apricot blossoms while
August, the ripening fruit lends
it an orange hue.
Places
of Interest
Zanskar (Penzila to Padum
Karsha and Zangla)
Two small, turquoise, high
altitude lakes with camping
sites, and views of the
surrounding permafrost mountains
are the highlights of the Penzi
La pass, which is 160 Km from
Kargil and at an altitude of
4,401 to 4,450 meters, the
highest point on the Kargil –
Zanskar road. This pass is more
of a table land and, unlike the
Zojila, has plenty of flat
spaces and things to see, the
Drang-Drung, for instance.
Kishtwar is behind the mountains
of the right.
Zanskar being half way through
the pass, some 35 km, after
Rangdum. It is spread over more
than 5,000 Sq.Km. Zanskar
remains cut off from the rest of
the world for
more than eight
months a year due to blockade of
the Penzi La. Besides there are
no air service. Today Zanskar is
one of the least interfered with
microcosms of Ladakh and one of
the last surviving cultural
settlers of Tibet. Put simply,
systems such as polyandry, which
are more or less extinct in Leh
town and in the more advanced
villages of Leh district, still
survive in some pockets of
Zanskar. In 1999 around a
quarter of Zanskar still
practiced polyandry. By then
several shops and spring up in
Padum and you could actually by
things with money
Sani
Emperor Kanishka (Aka Kanika)
had got 108 chortens constructed
in the first century AD. One of
them is in Sani. The holy site
at Sani is called Turtot Gyat
and is one of the 8 holiest
Buddhist sites in the world.
That is why most of the
Luminaries of Himalayan Buddhism
including Padma Sambhava, Naropa
and Marpa have visited Sani.
This venerable monastery had
ancient and medieval frescoes.
Rangdum Monastery
Rangdum: (3,657 meters, 130 km
from Kargil town, 65 Km from
Panikhar). The Rangdum monastery
has tiny “museum” with
interesting Tibetan and other
artifacts. Around forty monks
live in the gompa. It is
difficult to agree with accounts
that date the Gompa to the 8th
century. 18th century is more
likely. The villagers who live
near the Gompa are basically the
agriculture shrifts of the
monastery, a guidebook informs
us.
Zongkhul
This monastery is built in a
spectacular cave, lies on the
Padum-Kishtwar trekking route,
just before the ascent to the
Omasi-La Pass begins. Situated
like a swallow's nest on the
rock face of the Ating Gorge,
the monastery is associated with
Naropa, a famous India Yogi. The
two caves around which the
present monastery has developed
are said to have been used by
Naropa for solitary mediation.
The frescos on the cave walls
are very old and reflect a high
degree of artistic achievement.
Karsha Monastery
The largest monastic
establishment of Zanskar, Karsha
Gompa is an imposing complex of
neatly white-washed adobe blocks
comprising several chapels,
besides residential rooms for
its nearly 150 resident monks.
Karsha is 4-6 Km from Padum.
Built picturesquely along the
steep gradient of the
mountainside above the Stod
river, the monastery can be seen
from far and wide. The Gompa,
founded by Phagspa Sherab in the
11th century, has the largest
library (Kahgyur Khang) in
Zanskar and even beyond, there
are eight temples and two
assembly halls in the complex,
which also houses a famous,
large and priceless Thangka and
smaller but valuable scrolls and
precious idols.
The Thabrang (room of God and
religion) has frescoes dating
back to around the 15th century.
There is a 14th century Chomo
Gompa (Nunnery) called the Dorje
Dzong at the other end of Karsha.
The nuns go over to the main
Gompa for all major festivals.
Karsha is the biggest and
richest monastery in all Zanskar.
Stongday
Stongday Gompa is built on a
rocky outcrop overlooking the
oasis-like village below. It
lies 20 Km to the north of Padum,
on the road leading to Zangla.
Stongday is now the second
largest monastic establishment
of Zanskar with 60 resident
Gelukpa monks. The highlight of
this monastery is its Gon Khang
(temple of guardian deities).
Phugthal Monastery
Phugthal is the most
spectacularly located monastic
establishment anywhere in Ladakh.
The Phugthal complex spills out
of the mouth of a huge cave high
up in the sheer mountain face of
a lateral gorge through which a
major tributary of the Lungnak
River flows. Perhaps the most
isolated monastery in Zanskar,
its foundation dates back to the
early 12th century. The
monastery has frescos and
ceiling decorations reflecting
strong Indian artistic and
oceanographic influence.
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