Cantonment & Mian
Mir Shrines
At one time there
must have been
scores of Sufi
graves in this area
which was developed
as Mian Mir
Cantonment during
1852, when Anarkali
was abandoned as a
cantonment. Today
there is just one
prominent shrine in
the cantonment, in
which the remains of
17th century saint
Miskin Shah Amri are
interred.
Tomb of Miskin
Shah Amri (Mir
Inayatullah)
To reach the tomb
from Mian Wadda
Khanqah, you will
need to retrace your
steps to Shalamar
Link Road and travel
south over
Mughalpura Bridge
which links it to
Sharah-e-Tufail.
Once you are in the
cantonment, the
shrine is
comparatively easy
to locate. Past
Alif-Lam-Meem Chowk,
sporting a
calligraphic
monument at the
roundabout, you will
need to turn right
(west) at Girja
(lit. Church) Chowk
(named after the
church of St. Mary
Magdelene) on
Shahrah-e-Abid Majid.
The darbar or mazar
of Hazrat Shah
Miskin Amri is
located south west
of Parvez Aslam
Chowk at the
crossing of
Shahrah-e-Abid Majid
and Sharah-e-Shami
Shaheed.
The tomb is located
in an enclosed
compound. The
doorway in its
boundary wall leads
into a courtyard, to
the left of which
the mazar with its
green dome is
situated. A mosque
can be found on the
left of the
courtyard. The most
pleasant feature of
the tomb are its old
trees, and a
multitude of doves
and a dovecote next
to the mosque.
Like many famous
personalities of the
period, Mir
Inayatullah (d.
1057/1647) was drawn
to Lahore by the
distinction and
piety of Hazrat Mian
Mir and joined his
mentor's school of
mysticism, the Qadri
Silsila. Due to the
retiring nature of
Inayatullah and his
preference for
seclusion, Mian Mir
gave him the name of
Miskin Shah. Since
Inayatullah would
not accept any
offerings from
anybody, and when
people wondered how
he managed to
survive, Mian Mir
replied that his
disciple was Miskin
Amar (a poor man
supported by the
amar, or will of
God), and needed no
help from men. It
was thus that he
became famous as
Miskin Shah Amri.
The original
mausoleum was
credited to Prince
Dara Shikoh during
the reign of
Shahjahan when
subehdar (governor)
Nawab Jafar Khan
ruled Lahore. Latif
reports that the
walls were
originally decorated
with beautiful
enamelled pottery,
however, even at the
time of Latif's
writing the
mausoleum had lost
its once beautiful
enamelled tile work
and was simply
whitewashed.
As we found in the
case of a majority
of tombs, this
shrine has also
undergone extensive
renovations. [
Mian Mir Mazar
and Mosque
To reach the tomb
and mosque of one of
the most celebrated
saints of Lahore,
Hazrat Mian Mir,
after whom the whole
area was named, it
is best to travel
north on
Sharah-e-Shami
Shaheed, also known
as the Cavalry
Ground, The road
veers left
(northwest) after
the railway line and
midway before the
next railway line
crossing you will
find a gateway on
the left (west)
marking the road to
the tomb of Hazrat
Mian Mir.
Although a little
out of the way, it
is worth the trek to
view one of the most
celebrated mazars,
the original
building of which
has fortunately
escaped the
large-scale
restoration/reconstruction
seen in many of
Lahore shrines.
The mazar, although
one of the most
famous and locally
referred to as Mian
Mir Sahib, is
approachable through
a set of winding
streets. A
semicircular gateway
sign marks the
street that leads
from Allama Iqbal
Road. Cruising south
past Mayo Gardens
and approximately in
the centre of the
two railway
crossings, the road
leads off Allama
Iqbal Road. The
winding street leads
to a large open
ground, opposite
which is situated
the mausoleum of the
great saint. As you
enter the doorway,
you enter a world
pregnant with
spiritual energy,
the hushed
atmosphere of the
enclosure
overpowering you
with its effect. It
is a large compound,
the beautiful
mausoleum with its
unusual
architectural
character presenting
itself in its full
glory.
Across the road to
the east of tomb of
Hazrat Mian Mir, is
a large chahar bagh
(four-quartered
garden or
paradisiacal garden)
in the centre of
which stands the
serene tomb of
Nadira Begam.
The whole area is
known as Mian Mir
after the saint, and
in fact the
cantonment close by
established by the
British in 1852 was
originally given the
name of Mian Mir
Cantonment—a
tradition of naming
after historic
structures of the
Mughal period when
the first British
cantonment was
established as
Anarkali Cantonment
named after the
famous Mughal tomb
of Anarkali.
The 16th century
saint Mir Mohammad
or Hazrat Mian Mir
Sindhi Qadri
(938/1531-1045/1635),
sometimes also
referred to as Mian
Mir Bala Fir Lahori,
hailed from Siwistan
(some say he was
born in the vicinity
of Thatta in Sindh),
with a distinguished
lineage traced back
to Hazrat Umar, the
second caliph of
Islam.
The impressive
doorway of soft pink
stone embellished
with ceramic tiles
leads into an
enormous courtyard,
dominated by a large
tree, through the
foliage of which the
Mughal tomb carrying
an unusual roof is
visible. The
sepulcher itself is
placed on a raised
white marble
platform carrying
delicate inlay
patterns. The steps
lead up to the
square structure,
with overhanging
chajja (eaves),
which carries the
remains of the
celebrated saint.
Although, some
renovation is in
evidence, the tomb
surfaces are
beautifully
embellished with the
fine Mughal fresco
and ceramic tile
work with fretwork
screens spanning the
openings.
On the west of the
enclosure stands a
5-bay mosque roofed
with comparatively
shallow cupolas,
rendered in a
combination of pink
and white—this is
the historic mosque
said to be of the
same ancient vintage
as the tomb. Several
cloisters line the
western and southern
boundary of the
enclosure, and
enormous trees and a
multitude of pigeons
creating a hushed
and secluded world.
The saint arrived in
Lahore at the age of
25 during the reign
of Emperor Akbar. He
went through a long
period of
self-denial—which,
it is said, extended
to 40 years—when he
would not sleep the
whole night and
would fast for a
whole week at a
time, sometimes
prolonging the fast
to a whole month.
His piety and
practice of
meditation and
detachment endowed
him with a legendary
status and it was
widely believed that
in virtue,
beneficence and
learning he had no
equal. He was fond
of religious,
devotional music—the
sama'a—as well as
the local ragas.
Among his most
devout disciples was
the poet-prince Dara
Shikoh, who has
narrated at length
the extraordinary
powers of the saint,
and his habit of
shunning the world
to engage himself in
meditation in
seclusion and
wilderness. Latif
quotes the prince
regarding the great
esteem in which his
grandfather. Emperor
Jahangir, held the
saint. Jahangir,
fond of discussions
with darveshs and
saints, eulogized
Mian Mir in his
remarkable personal
memoirs
Tuzuk-i-Jahangiri,
saying "Truly, he is
the beloved of God.
In sanctity and
purity of soul, he
has no equal in this
age."
Dara Shikoh's
father. Emperor
Shahjahan also held
the saint in great
esteem. According to
the author of
Badshahnama
(official record of
Shahjahan's reign),
to Shahjahan Mian
Mir was among the
two fakirs (saints)
whom he revered as
repositories of
profound knowledge
regarding the
Almighty, the second
one being Shaikh
Muhammad Fazlulla of
Burhanpur. The
emperor twice paid
his respects to the
saint when on his
royal tour of
Lahore, and being
conscious of the
saint's indifference
to worldly wealth,
presented him with
simple gifts of a
rosary and turban of
white cloth.
Hazrat Mian Mir died
in the reign of
Shahjahan, in
Mohallah Khawafipura.
It was Prince Dara
Shikoh who buried
him in the present
tomb and began its
construction, in an
area which at that
time was known as
Darapur established
by the prince
himself and named
after him.
Lahori quotes Dara
Shikoh's book
Sakinat-ul-Auliya,
in which a Persian
chronogram composed
by Mian Mir's
disciple Mulla Shah
is quoted:
Mian Mir, the
chief of the pious,
The dust of whose
portals is envied by
the stone of the
alchemist,
Travelled to the
city of eternity,
Being disgusted with
this world of
sorrow;
Reason said for the
year of his death,
'Mian Mir has gone
to the highest
heaven.
The last line
provides the year of
death as AH 1045 (ad
1635). The saint
belonged to Qadri
silsila. His urs is
held on the day of
his death, 7 Rabiul
Awwal.
Tombs of Hazrat
Khwaja Bihari Qadri
& Shah Muhammad
Mulla Shah
A comparatively
interesting route to
these tombs, where
disciples and
confidants of Hazrat
Mian Mir lie buried,
is found by walking
across the railway
line (known as
Multan Railway Line)
which is located at
the rear of Mian Mir
Tomb. This route
provides you with a
rare experience of
the streets and
locality in which
Mian Mir's shrine is
situated. Walking
across the courtyard
from the entrance to
the rear entrance
situated in the west
of the Mian Mir
compound, a path on
the left leads you
past graves and
interesting tomb
structures. You
should turn right
beyond the edge of
the Mian Mir
compound, and
through narrow
streets of the
residential area you
will arrive at the
railway line,
situated on raised
ground. Walking
across the railway
line (be sure there
is no railway
carriage in view),
which is a somewhat
uncomfortable walk
on the pebbles of
railway line, you
will arrive at a
comparatively small
tomb enclosure. This
is where Khwaja
Bihari Qadri is
buried. As is the
current status of
most tombs, this one
also has been
recently renovated.
Turning right at
Khwaja Bihari tomb,
and then left again
leads you to a
prominent mosque at
the corner.
Traversing a narrow
lane on the left
will take you to the
small tomb of Shah
Muhammad Mullah
Shah, which is
hemmed in by the
residential area
that has sprung up
around it.
However, if you wish
to take a more
comfortable route
from the tomb of
Mian Mir, you should
return to Allama
Iqbal Road and move
in a northwesterly
direction. Turning
left on Canal Bank
Road, and after
crossing the Multan
Railway Line take
the road on the left
ramp down parallel
to Canal Bank Road.
If you turn left, a
little further down,
the road will take
you to the tomb of
Khwaja Bihari.
Retracing your steps
and turning left
again you will reach
the crossing of a
prominent corner
mosque and to the
tomb of Shah
Muhammad Mullah Shah
as described above.
Tomb of Hazrat
Khwaja Bihari Qadri
Situated in a
comparatively open-
space, the enclosure
consisting of dwarf
walls with steel
upright fencing, is
welcoming. And, in
spite of the
openness, as soon as
you enter the
compound, you are
transported to the
Sufi world of
serenity. The sign
on the steps
declares the shrine
to belong to Hazrat
Baba Bihari.
The 17th century
saint was born in
Qasba Hajipura,
Bihar (now a
province in India),
which was the reason
for the appellation
Bihari. Drawn by the
reputation of piety
and learning of
Hazrat Mian Mir,
Khwaja Bihari (d.
1041/1631) arrived
in Lahore and became
devoutly attached to
the former. Many
tales of miraculous
powers and strength
of prayer are
related of a saint
who spent all his
life in prayer and
meditation.
Prince Dara Shikoh,
mentioned above,
spent much time in
the company of
Khwaja Bihari, and
related his
experiences in his
book Sakinat ul
Auliya, also noting
that after the death
of Mian Mir, it was
Khwaja Bihari who
organized the urs of
the saint. It is due
to the devotion of
Khwaja Bihari to
Hazrat Mian Mir that
he was buried close
to the former's
ziaratgah (shrine).
The square tomb is
crowned by a cupola.
According to Latif,
the original lattice
work of the tomb
placed on all four
sides, was
fabricated from red
sandstone. However,
during the reign of
Maharaja Ranjit
Singh, his French
general Avitabile
removed it to adorn
his own residence in
Lahore. During the
British rule, the
tomb did duty as the
residence of various
British officials.
In the recent past,
the tomb and nearby
mosque have been
taken up for
restoration,
presenting a
refurbished and
well-looked-after
shrine.
Tomb of Shah
Muhammad Mulla Shah
At the corner of the
prominent mosque, a
brick gateway
distinguishes the
street where this
important saint,
hailing from
Badakhshan lies
buried. Traversing
the narrow street on
foot, it is best to
ask for the Durbar
of Mulla Shah, for
it is difficult to
distinguish the
entrance in the mass
of structures
abutting it.
As you enter the
doorway, a narrow
passage leads you to
a small courtyard,
which is dominated
by the square tomb
of the saint. On its
north is a small
verandah which leads
to a small mosque.
The real name of the
saint was Shah
Muhammad, but he
became well known as
Mullah Shah (d.
1072/1661). After
having spent three
years in Kashmir, he
went to Agra.
Arriving in Lahore
in 1023/1614, as was
the case of Khwaja
Bihari, Shah
Muhammad also become
a disciple of Hazrat
Mian Mir. Reputed to
be a scholar and
poet of great merit,
the chronogram
mentioned above on
Hazrat Mian Mir
having been penned
by him, his poetry
portrayed the
instability of the
world, exhorting
people to follow the
path of
righteousness.
He developed a
reputation for piety
and sanctity. Hardly
sleeping, he spent
his time in
seclusion, devoting
himself to
meditation and
prayers. He
practiced hubs dam,
a practice through
which he could hold
his breath for hours
together.
As with many others,
this tomb is also in
the process of
reconstruction.
Today's mausoleum is
hardly
representative of
the once elaborate
sepulcher, reputed
to have been
embellished by
Prince Dara Shikoh,
a devout disciple
who considered the
saint his spiritual
guide. Decorated
with marble stones
and other precious
materials, the
arched openings of
the tomb were once
filled with marble
latticework. La tif
informs us that the
precious elements
were removed by
Maharaja Ranjit
Singh and utilized
to decorate Ram Bagh
at Amritsar. He also
records that the
tomb was once in the
centre of a large
garden with a
splendid gateway to
the north, the area
at the time being
known as Alamganj.
Hazrat Mulla Shah
belonged to Qadri
silsila.
Syed Alif Shah
Shaheed
The shrine of this
12th century saint
is located in a
large graveyard,
known as
Qabristan-e-Zargaran
or the 'graveyard of
goldsmiths'. As you
retrace your steps
and travel northwest
on Allama Iqbal Road
(earlier Mayo Road)
and a little
distance after the
entrance to Mayo
Gardens, on your
left (west) a narrow
street, known as
Aftab Street,
(accessible by car
but barely), in the
vicinity of Sardar
House, leads to the
large enclosure
where the tomb is
situated. The
graveyard and tomb
are located behind
enormous walls on
the right, and
unless you open the
large gates, there
is little indication
of the presence of
this ancient saint's
grave.
Enormous trees loom
overhead, while the
saint's tomb, a
nondescript recent
structure on a
raised platform, is
surrounded by
several graves. The
mazar is not very
well maintained,
though it does exude
a reclusive air,
away from the bustle
of life.
According to the
book
Tahqiqat-e-Chishti
(the findings of
Chishti) Syed Alif
accompanied Bibi Pak
Damanan—the chaste
ladies whose tomb is
much revered—to
Lahore in 560/1165;
however, little is
known about the
saint except that he
died fighting
non-Muslims, thus
the appellation
shaheed (martyr).
Annual urs of the
saint is held on 5
July.Chah Miran Shrines Group 1
Chah Miran Shrines Group 2
Baghbanpura Shrines
Shalamar Link Road Shrines
Cantonment & Mian Mir Shrines
Shah Jamal & The ciry Shrines
The Walled City Shrines
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