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Firangi Rahguzar
Places to Visit >> Major Cities & Towns >> Lahore
Charing Cross Group

Marble Pavilion, 1902

To enjoy Sullivan's grand concept of Charing Cross, it is best for you to continue on Hall Road and take a left turn (northeast) on Ferozepur Road. This route allows you to see the pristine marble pavilion with its elegant cupola as the focal point, against the backdrop of the Punjab Assembly building, the whole ensemble framed by similar buildings on two sides—the original Masonic Lodge on the right (east) and Shah Din Building on left (west).

Approaching it from Regal Chowk on the Upper Mall, although the pavilion appears to have been sidelined, but is still impressive in its purity of form.

The 'Moghul-style canopy', as it is referred to in contemporary accounts, is a memorial to 'Her Majesty's glorious reign'. The pristine white marble pavilion was built to house a massive statue of Queen Victoria, wearing a widow's veil and complete with her royal regalia.

The design and the material for the canopy was well chosen by the neo-Mughal rulers, as the British are referred to by Stanley Wolpert. White marble has been long associated with Mughal royal buildings: the greatest Mughal builder, Shahjahan ordered some of his most elegant structures in marble for a chaste and highly decorative architectural expression.

When completed in 1902, the canopy with its regal occupant immediately formed the focus of the Mall. Later, the roads in the area were realigned as part of the ambitious Charing Cross scheme, taken up to beautify Lahore. Basil M. Sullivan, Consulting Architect to the Government of the Punjab, designed the whole neighborhood in 1914 and the realignment of the roads, with the objective of providing Victoria Memorial with a dignified setting.

The Anglo-Mughal design, a style particularly in vogue since the construction of Mayo School of Art and Aitchison College etc., was selected to convey the feeling of a benevolent rule overseen by a benign queen. Situated as the pavilion was on the most important thoroughfare of Lahore, at the most significant location that the road had to offer, it was certain that nobody who lived in Lahore could miss the gracious queen looking down upon the city's populace. Many statues were removed from the streets of main cities of Pakistan. Karachi's Frere Hall lost its statues (here too was one of Victoria), but where Karachi statues have been irretrievably lost or broken, Lahore's Queen Victoria resides in the basement of Lahore Museum, and can still be seen in its pristine glory.

Although the attractive pavilion still occupies a place in the open square in front of the Assembly Hall, Victoria's former place in the pavilion has been taken over by a larger than life Holy Quran. For some, the importance of the pavilion and that of the fine public square which it once dominated has been compromised, due to the erection of the Islamic Summit Minar.

Masonic Lodge,1914

The practice of freemasonry in the subcontinent was a closely guarded secret, and the lodge was inaccessible to the general public. In view of the secrecy shrouding its practice, local inhabitants referred to Masonic Lodges as 'Jadu ghar' (a Sorcery or witchcraft House), a term employed by the famous anthropologist Richard Burton in discussing the lodge in Karachi. Lahore became the headquarters of freemasonry in the Punjab and a District Grand Lodge, "a commodious and handsomely furnished hall" was built to conduct the activities. Members of the society were chiefly Europeans, although the Gazetteer of 1884 informs us that "Parsis and Muhammadans and a few of the more enlightened sects of Hindus" were also admitted.

The first lodge, built in 1860, was a comparatively modest structure, and employed the classical form utilized in Lawrence and Montgomery Halls, with pediment windows and a small projecting portico carried on simple fluted columns. However, the original building was sold during the early 1910s when it was decided to acquire a site for a new building.

The impressive Masonic Lodge is situated on the east comer at the junction of Shaharah-e-Quaid-e-Azam (the Upper Mall) and Sharah-e-Fatima Jinnah (Ferozpur Road), while its almost exact replica, the Shah Din Building, forms the opposite corner on the west of the junction. Together with the Marble Pavilion  and the Punjab Assembly Building (described later in this rahguzar), these buildings constitute the most important urban elements of Lahore's Charing Cross. The two identical buildings were envisioned to form the backdrop for the new square designed by Consulting Architect Basil M. Sullivan A.R.I.B.A., and brought much order into a disorderly collection of streets and untidy urban environment.

The foundations of the new Masonic Lodge were laid in 1914 on a site measuring 13 kanals at the south-east corner of the newly launched Charing Cross scheme. This is where three important roads met and the Consulting Architect Basil M. Sullivan was keen to treat the whole neighborhood in the form of a comprehensive scheme, in order to combine "the existing straggling gardens and broken frontage, with the main roads focusing more directly upon the Victoria Memorial," which he believed was essential to provide a dignified setting that such a monument required, but lacked at the time.

The building, with its graceful and comparatively uncluttered character, has a significant presence on the main road. Consisting of a two-storey structure, evocative of classical detailing, the building is much simplified, in deference to the Modern Movement that held sway in Europe and USA at the time. Although Doric columns are employed to flank the ground floor openings with pilasters rising to the full height of two storey, the moldings and detailing of slightly projecting eaves etc. are in conformity with the utilitarian character demanded by the Modern Movement. A large porch or deorhi, in the manner of many buildings of the period, rises to the full two storey, and projects out from the main facade, providing accent and emphasis to the dignified building.

The building situated at 90, The Mall, lay desolate for many years; however, it was due to the impetus provided by the Heritage Foundation Pakistan through the conservation of the nearby General Post Office during the 1980s, as well as pressure from conservation groups in Lahore, that the restoration of this important landmark was taken up. It was hoped that after its restoration, a museum and archives dedicated to the Pakistan Movement would be established, but this objective is still to be achieved. There is little doubt that through adaptive re-use, fine architectural edifices such as this one should allow the general public to visit and enjoy the treasures of the past, instead of relegating them to the exclusive use of government officials or political leaders.

It is gratifying that Shah Din building across Shahrah-e-Fatima Jinnah is now being restored by a well-known bank as adaptive reuse. If the bank is able to maintain the integrity and characteristics of the original structure, it would help in re-establishing the dignified character of Charing Cross envisioned by Sullivan.

Punjab Assembly Building, 1935

Going past the marble pavilion, the encircling road network allows you to go around this important structure of Punjab Assembly.

Seen from Shaharah-e-Quaid-e-Azam (the Upper Mall), though the Anglo-Mughal pavilion seems to have been dwarfed by the tall Islamic Summit Minar, at its rear stands the dignified structure of the Punjab Assembly Building. Occupying one of the most prestigious locations after the transformation and realigning of the Charing Cross streets, the presence of the assembly building symbolized the first step towards self-determination. Its construction was begun in 1935, to coincide with Government of India Act 1935, under which the first Legislative Assembly of the Punjab was established, and Sir Shahabuddin elected as its first speaker.

At present the importance of the assembly is somewhat compromised, flanked as it is on one side by Edward Stone's white fantasy WAPDA House and nondescript Alfalah Building on the other, and facing the Islamic Summit Minar constructed in 1977 to commemorate the first conference of Islamic countries (1974). At the time of its construction, however, viewed beyond the elegant Victoria Memorial pavilion, the Punjab Assembly held a commanding position on the vast expanse of Charing Cross square.

The Punjab Assembly is a two-storey building, with a central projecting portico composed of giant columns rising to the full height of the building. Although the columns carry Ionic capitals, influenced by the international movement in Europe and USA an architectural ensemble of simplicity and grace was created. The composition presents a unified appearance, capped by a sloping roof, while the portico, faced with soft pink stone, carries a distinctive roof. Situated amongst an expanse of open space, it retains a commanding position on Charing Cross.

The building, constructed at a cost of Rs. 246,030, was designed to accommodate 271 members in its semi-circular assembly hall. Other facilities include members' lobby, visitors' gallery and press gallery, as well as offices for ministers and staff. The building also houses an impressive collection of books on legislative matters.

It was fitting that the architect of the master plan of Charing Cross, Basil M. Sullivan, should also have been the architect for this building.

Old Anarkali Buildings

The Upper Mall Heritage

Charing Cross Group

Miscellaneous

Imperial Edifices

G.O.R. & Cantonment Buildings

 
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