 The
Cholistan, or Rohi,
Desert in Punjab is
the largest desert
on the Indian
continent. The
desert is over
10,000 square miles.
Located 20 miles
from Bahawalpur, The
Hakra River dried up
here, and with it
most life. The 2.5
million people who
live here are nomads
who lead a simple
life herding and
trading in camels.
Their culture is
strong with many
romantic legends
dating back to
ancient times and
they place great
value in the power
of song. The desert
festivals are simply
out of this world,
you may see camels
dancing (except
those with two left
humps) who are even
better dressed in
dazzling costumes
than their owners.
The people of
Cholistan wear
embroidered and
print coloured
shirts, skirts and
robe coats. During
the wet season, the
nomads built shallow
reservoirs to catch
rainwater to survive
long spells away
from their villages.
Cholistan is
changing amazingly.
The desert was under
perennial regular
irrigated
cultivation till
1200 B C and under
seasonal regular
irrigated
cultivation till
about 600 B C. The
area turned into
arid and desolate
desert with drying
up of River Hakra.
These days again,
the desert is under
going a process of
profound change
because of canal
system originating
from the River
Sutlaj. But one can
still find people
living in houses
made of mud and
straw almost as they
might have been
living 200 years
ago.
The way of life is
also about to
change. The women
folk in drab
landscape of desert
wearing nath
(nosegay), katmala
(necklace), kangan
(big bangles), pazeb
(worn on toes),
bright color, and
vivid pattern
lehngas of 20 yards
and high cholis may
one day become part
of history. Maybe
not so in near
future! Sofi poet
Khawaja Ghulam Farid,
who spent 18 years
of his life
wandering about in
Cholistan, admiring
its beauty and
people wrote, "But
what tongue shall
tell the glory of
it, the perpetual
strength of it, and
sublimity of its
lonely desolation!
And who shall paint
the splendor of its
light." The poet was
passionately found
of desert milieus
that are hard, dry
and at first
repulsive. His
fascination for
Cholistan was so
rich that his poetry
has woven melodious
aura all around Rohi
-- as the desert is
called in a local
dialect. He has set
the standards for
desert wanderers. I
can tell you
something of what I
have seen during my
intermittent stay -
from 1977 till 2000
- in the desert, but
I cannot tell you
the grander of the
desert, nor the
glory of colors that
wrap the burning
sand. The awesome
vistas and richness
of the desert are
beyond description.
Cholistan is a land
of legends, myths,
velour, romance,
folk melodies and
regal elegance. At
the tail of monsoon
region, Cholistan
stands as if
petitioning the sky
for rain. It very
seldom falls. And
whenever the prayers
are answered, the
water is stored for
human being as well
as animals in
reservoirs known as
`kunds'. Average
rainfall in the area
is 3 to 5 inches a
year. Nomadic
Holystones are
constantly moving in
search of water that
is scarce, lies very
deep, and is
brackish. The lack
of fresh water for
drinking and
irrigation controls
the lives of the
people of the
region. A Saraiki
poet once wrote,
"Men tassel, merry
dart tarsi, tee
tarsi Rohi jai,
melon ankh an
 pan
dryad." It seems as
if Cholistan is
still mourning for
the demise of the
River Hacra.
Cholistan is one of
the fantasy regions
for local as well
foreign tourists,
geologists,
historians,
archaeologists and
naturalists.
Things to
see and do
There are a number
of forts along the
old river bed dating
back to 4000 BC. The
Forts were built to
guard the ancient
trading routes.
Derawar Fort
- Deep in the heart
of the Cholistan
Desert stands the
lonely but
awe-inspiring
Derawar Fort. A
massive fort with
decoratively carved
sandstone walls,
which take your
breath away, as they
rise magnificently
from the flat desert
wasteland like
something so grand
it's difficult to
imagine. Built in
1733 by the Nawab
(Royal family) of
Bahawalpur, the fort
can be seen for many
miles with walls 90
ft high. It is
extremely
photogenic, but is
best seen in the
morning or evening
before or after the
desert's midday sun
takes hold.
Shrines of
Channan Pir - 30
miles from Derawar
Fort. A festival is
held annually at the
start of March where
devotees gather on
the night of the
full moon to honour
the tomb of saint
Channan Pir.
Shopping -
You can buy locally
produced Cholistan
crafts at the Craft
Development Centre
outside Farid Gate.
Best buys including
a Flassi (camel hair
wall hanging or
decorative carpet),
a Gindi (cloth
needlework covering
used as spread or
tablecloth), Khalti
(multi-coloured
embroidered purse)or
a Changary
(geometric plague
made of palm
leaves).
Trekkers
essentials
Clothes -
Make a turban from a
piece of cloth |
