Karachi's
Coastline
 The best kept secret
of Karachi is its
coastline. The city
has not been planned
to take advantage of
the ocean's
proximity and the
breath taking beauty
of the Arabian Sea.
Unless you venture
towards the harbor
you will altogether
miss some wonderful
experiences:
watching the setting
sun while sailing in
a bunder boat,
eating crabs and
fish freshly coated
and broiled in the
boat, or sitting on
Oyster Rock under an
umbrella of stars.
Beaches are another
gift of the sea for
Karachi and, even
for those not
enamored with
conservation issues,
a most rewarding
experience is to see
the hatching of
marine turtles,
considered the last
of the living
dinosaurs. The rare
species of Green and
Olive Ridley
Turtles, after
traveling hundreds
of miles, return
every year for
egg-laying to the
beaches of their
birth in Karachi's
Hawke's Bay and
Sandspit. During the
moonlit nights of
September and
October, you can
watch giant Green
Turtles lumbering up
to the sand to lay
their eggs.
Internationally
declared as
Endangered Species,
they are protected
under Sindh Wildlife
Protection
Ordinance, 1972. The
Turtle Conservation
Program, initiated
by WWF and IUCN in
1979, is now managed
by Sindh Wildlife
Management Board.
Due to this program
there has been a
significant increase
in the turtle
population over the
last twenty
years—over 40,000
hatchings have been
released in the sea,
majority of which
are Green Turtles.
Those visiting the
beaches carry a
special
responsibility for
the the safety of
marine life by
ensuring that no
refuse—such as
plastic bags,
Styrofoam pieces,
balloons and raw
plastic pellets—is
left on the beach.
The beaches allow
you to enjoy the sun
and the sand, and to
swim—but with
caution!
Keamari Boat
Basin
Keamari provides you
with the real flavor
of a coastline city.
Jostling for space
are innumerable
sailing boats or
motor boats, which
are available for
hire. The Boat Basin
itself is not far
from the centre of
the city, but due to
heavy traffic it can
easily take 25-30
minutes to get there
by bus or taxi. You
can either hire a
private boat or
board a launch of
the launch service,
plying regularly to
the islands of
Manora, Bhit and
Baba islands.
Karachi Fish
Harbor
For a most colorful
and exciting sight,
visit the Karachi
Fish Harbor where
boats with
multi-colored sails
and flags jostle in
the harbor. Up to
the limit that your
eyes can see, you
will find boats
crammed together.
The best view of the
Karachi Fish Harbor
is at the time of
sunrise or sunset
when the whole scene
is imbued with a
golden hue. The
boats, steered by
their nakhuda
(captain), are
loaded with ice
before embarking on
their journey for
their hauls of fish
and shrimp, which
may keep them in the
coastal waters of
Baluchistan and
Sindh for seven to
eight days. Situated
close to Keamari, it
is at Karachi Fish
Harbour that the
fresh catch of fish
is brought and
sorted before being
auctioned.
Manora & Other
Islands
Manora Island
is historically the
most significant
part of Karachi. At
the time of the
British assault on
Karachi in 1839,
Manora had a mud
fortress, which was
razed to the ground
by the bombardment
of the British
flagship 74-gun
H.M.S. Wellesley.
Soon afterwards
Karachi capitulated.
A major part of the
island is occupied
by a large naval
base, which is out
of bounds for
general public. At
one time Karachi
Port Trust had a
large establishment
there, evidence of
which is in the form
of a few structures
still extant. There
are a few historic
buildings there,
albeit in a
neglected condition.
Manora is connected
to the city by a
causeway which
allows you to drive
there. But the boat
ride in the open
waters is far more
enjoyable and
exciting as Manora
Island unfolds
itself. The beach is
relatively clean for
swimming. Except
during mid-day when
the sun can be quite
hot, a walk or a
camel ride is a
pleasing experience
due to the largely
inbuilt character of
the island. Among
historic buildings
is the nineteenth
century St. Paul's
Church, Watch Tower,
Observatory and Club
building.
Bhit Island and
Baba Island
are also among the
oldest parts of
Karachi. These are
inhabited by
fishermen, said to
belong to the Mohana
tribe, whose ancient
lineage is traced to
the earliest fisher
folk of Sindh.
Today, the tribe of
the Mohanas is found
on Manchar Lake,
plying in boats,
reminiscent of the
ancient boats of
Moenjodaro.
Crabbing
is one activity you
must not miss when
you visit Karachi.
This is best done in
the evening by
hiring a sail boat
from Keamari Harbor
and proceeding to
sea for three to
four hours. You
should haggle to get
a good bargain which
should include
cooking crabs and
fish. Not only can
you indulge in
fishing, eating
freshly cooked fish
or crabs under the
open sky is an
experience only
Karachi can offer.
Karachi Beaches
Karachi has several
golden beaches which
stretch for miles.
On weekends they can
be quite crowded,
but you can find
stretches without
many people.
Warning:
During the monsoons
(May, June, July)
the beaches are
dangerously rough,
and not suitable for
swimming.
Clifton Beach
is the most easily
accessible of all
beaches, only
fifteen to twenty
minute drive from
the city centre.
Clifton itself was
an island at one
time and was used as
a health resort,
with a sanitarium
for the use of
British army and
beaurocracy. Parts
of it have wide
roads lined with
100-year old Bunyan
trees and sprawling
houses.
Until the 1960s the
beach was accessible
mainly from Lady
Lloyd Pier; however,
as more and more
land was reclaimed
during the 1970s,
and housing areas of
Defence Authority
extended, it is now
easily reached from
Sea View apartments
area as well.
In the evening this
beach provides a
festive appearance.
Karachi citizens
flock to it and you
see adults and
children walking,
running, playing
ball, riding horses
or gaily decorated
camels, or just
sitting in the cool
breeze enjoying
snacks from the many
food stalls. Bargain
and fix the rates
before embarking on
a camel or horse
ride. It is not
advisable to swim
here due to polluted
waters as well as
danger of strong
tides. Many
accidents have
happened here and
even the strongest
swimmers must not
take a risk.
Restaurants along
the beach offer a
wide variety of
cuisine.
Clifton Viewpoint.
The bandstand known
as Jehangir Kothari
Pavilion is located
at the highest point
on this hill, and
provides a panoramic
view of the
surrounding scenery.
At the time of its
construction during
the mid 1920s, only
five or six
bungalows could be
seen in the area
with the remaining
surrounding area
being largely
unbuilt. Even the
pink hued
Mughal-revival
Mohatta Palace,
(residence of
Muhammad Ali
Jinnah's sister
Fatima from 1964-67)
located close-by was
built a couple of
years afterwards.
The view from this
elevated pavilion is
remarkable even
today, in spite of
the buildings that
have mushroomed in
the area. From the
pavilion, in the
distance you can see
Manora Lighthouse,
the tall cranes of
Karachi Port Trust
and many
contemporary
multistory office
towers.
The cupola-topped
pink pavilion is
part of a Cluster
which includes
Jehangir Kothari
Parade and Lady
Lloyd Pier. The
Parade is parallel
to the shoreline and
consists of a small
Pavilion and
Walkways with steps
leading to Bagh-i-Ibn-Qasim,
a few feet below. A
walk on Lady Loyd
Pier, which extends
1200 feet towards
the sea, is an
exhilarating
experience due to
the fresh sea
breeze. All these
structures are
constructed of a
combination of pink
Jodhpur stone and
buff colored local
Gizri stone. Many
people visit this
Cluster to enjoy the
view, the expanse of
open space and cool
sea breeze. Snacks
and soft drinks are
available from the
food stalls and
restaurants in the
area, while a Fun
land, located on the
left of the cluster,
provides ferris
wheels, bumper cars
and merry-go-rounds
etc. for amusement
of children. Across
the main road,
Shahrah-e-Firdousi,
the contemporary
building of Park
Towers provides
added attraction in
the form of a
shopping mall and
international food
outlets.
Sandspit and
Hawke's Bay
are beaches that are
within a radius of
10 to 20 km and
about forty-five
minutes drive away
from the city
centre. There are
several beach huts
owned privately, and
many are available
on rent. These beach
huts are usually
equipped with
cooking facilities,
bathrooms and one or
two rooms. The
beaches are
comparatively clean
but swimming is best
avoided except in
very safe months
such as March or
April. It is
important to check
the condition of the
sea before
attempting to swim
deep into it since
there is always a
strong undercurrent.
During the months of
May and June, keep a
lookout for
jelly-fish. There is
no plantation or
other ground cover
or shade, so be
prepared for the
strong sun. Gaily
decorated camels for
rides are easily
available and are an
enjoyable pastime.
Although cold drinks
and snacks from
stalls are
available, it is
best to carry your
own food and drinks.
The French Beach
is a more exclusive
beach since it is
accessible to
comparatively few
people. It is
situated between
Hawke's Bay and
Paradise Point. It
is part of a fishing
village known as
Haji Abdullah Goth,
and is surrounded by
a wall. Some huts,
constructed by the
villagers, are
available for hire,
but they are without
any electricity or
running water. If
you wish to enjoy
snorkeling and skin
diving this rocky
beach with its clear
waters is the ideal
place. You can also
hire boats for
scuba-diving;
however, you will
need to bring your
own equipment and
food and drink.
Paradise Point
is further west of
the French Beach,
where waves crash
through a hole in a
large rock. It is a
famous spot which
attracts a large
crowd of people. You
can choose your own
private cove, as you
drive on the road
following the top of
a low cliff.
Needless to say, no
refreshment is
available in the
area and it is best
to carry your own
food and drinks.
Mubarak Village
can be reached after
a forty five minutes
breath taking drive
along the Mekran
coast. Beside
swimming you can
enjoy climbing the
hills for the scenic
view of the
surroundings. The
beach is
comparatively clean
and more secluded.
Gaddani Beach
is located in
Baluchistan, 50
kilometers west of
Karachi across the
Hub river. It is
famous for its
ship-breaking
industry where ships
are beached and
dismantled by hand,
without any
mechanical devices.
You will find here a
beach with smooth
sand, perfect for
swimming and sun
bathing.
Trips
Mangho Pir's
Shrine
This historic site
is located
approximately 18 km
north of Karachi, in
the village of
Mangho Pir.
According to the
folklore, the Sufi
saint, whose shrine
is located here, had
come from Bokhara in
the thirteenth
century, to spread
the message of Islam
in the subcontinent.
The saint came to be
known as Pir Mango,
or Muggur Peer (lit.
Alligator Saint),
and was equally
revered by Hindus,
who worshipped him
as Lala Jasraj.
Although you find
only a few
alligators today, it
is said that at one
time hundreds of
alligators in the
400x200 feet pool
guarded the sulphur
springs. The hot
springs are
attributed to a
miracle brought
about by another
Sufi saint Lal
Shahbaz Qalandar
(buried at Sehwan in
Sindh), who, it is
said, caused a hot
spring to issue from
a rock and a grove
of date palms to
spring from the
ground, in order to
make the valley more
livable for the
Mugger Peer. During
the early part of
the 20th century,
the site was visited
by the city's
affluent gentry in
huglies (open
barouches), which
were hired
particularly for
such visits. Today,
the few remaining
crocodiles are of a
rare species and are
fed on the offerings
of meat by hundreds
of devotees that
visit the shrine in
search of cures for
various diseases.
Chaukandi
This cluster of
tombs and graves is
located only 27 km
from Karachi and can
be visited with
ease. The site is
famous for the
exquisitely carved
sandstone tombs.
Although a majority
consists of graves,
there are some
pavilion tombs
supported by columns
as well. Belonging
to sixteenth
century, the carving
is similar to that
found in the Samma
Cluster at Makli
necropolis. Women's
graves are
distinguished with
carvings based on
designs of jewelry
such as necklaces,
rings and ear rings,
while those of men
depict stylized
turbans, weapons and
horse riders. The
intricate carving
contains diverse
motifs ranging from
geometric arabesques
to stylized floral
and vegetal motifs.
It is a protected
site in the care of
Department of
Archaeology,
Government of
Pakistan.
Banbhore
This ancient site,
situated 35 km from
Chaukhandi (62 km
from Karachi), is
identified with the
ancient site of
Debal, which was a
port of the enormous
empire of the great
king 'Rai Chach, son
of Selaij, son of
Bisas'. The first
Muslims arrived in
Sindh with Muhammad
bin Qasim in 711 ad,
when he attacked
Raja Dahir, son of
Rai Chach. A ship
carrying Muslim
pilgrims, Abbysinian
slaves and gifts of
pearls and jewels
from the ruler of
Serendip (Sri Lanka)
to the Ummayid
Caliph, al-Walid I
(705-715), had been
captured by Raja
Dahir and bin Qasim
was sent to secure
their release.
Accompanied by a
large number of
warriors and
equipped with arms
and war-like
machines, bin Qasim
lay siege to Debal.
Strategically
placing his manjanik
called 'the bride'
which needed 500 men
to work it, he told
the manjanik master
to aim at the
flagstaff. As the
flagstaff broke, it
brought confusion in
the ranks of the
defenders of Debal.
Bin Qasim ordered
his men to escalade
the walls of the
fortress and the
town was taken.
Dahir's governor
fled and the
three-day massacre
effectively
eliminated all
resistance.
Before proceeding
for the conquest of
Sindh and the
Punjab, bin Qasim
laid the foundation
of a mosque. The
mosque at Bhambore
is identified with
bin Qasim's mosque
and thus is the
earliest mosque in
the subcontinent;
its foundations and
floor are still
extant. A small
museum displays
various finds from
the area. Until a
couple of decades
ago, you could find
the site strewn with
pottery shards and
coins etc. It is a
protected site in
the care of
Department of
Archaeology,
Government of
Pakistan.
Halaeji Lake
Situated 88 km from
Karachi, a few
kilometers off
National Highway, is
the largest natural
bird sanctuary in
Sindh known as
Haleji Lake
Waterfowl Reserve.
Due to its
diversified
environment, the
Lake is popular with
a range of migratory
waterfowl: divers,
dabblers, surface
and deep-water
feeders, and fresh-
& brackish-water
loving birds. During
the winter season
migratory birds
flock here from as
far afield as
Siberia. It is
located on Flyway
No. 4, also known as
Indus Flyway:
Siberia-Kazakhastan-Pakistan-India.
At one time the Lake
attracted 222
species of birds.
Those interested in
bird-watching should
plan a trip between
October and February
when they are likely
to see up to a
hundred species of
birds, including
kingfishers,
pelicans and
flamingoes etc. The
embankment road
encircling the lake
provides a
spectacular sight of
thousands of
migratory birds.
There are several
birdwatcher's
hideouts in the
Visitors' Centre
managed by Sindh
Wildlife Department.
The Lake was
constructed during
the early 1940s as a
sweet water
reservoir fed from
the nearby Keenjhar
Lake, to provide
water for the
British soldiers
stationed at Karachi
Cantonment during
the Second World
War.
Other Trips
Other sites,
accessible from the
National Highway,
that are further
away but are do-able
in a day include
Makli Hill, the
largest necropolis
in the world which
contains vintage
carving and tile
mosaic work on tombs
dating from 14th to
17th century, and is
on the World
Heritage List
compiled by UNESCO.
The ancient and once
flourishing town of
Thatta is worth
visiting for its
unique technique of
mud and wood for
construction of
houses, which are
faced with lime
stucco decoration
using neo-classical
ornamentation, and
wind catchers, or
wind scoops the
cooling devices
which directs the
prevailing breeze
into buildings. In
Thatta you can also
see the famous
Mughal-period
mosque. Shah Jahan
Mosque, a remarkable
building with
exquisite tile work,
built in 1647. A
little beyond Thatta
is Keenjhar Lake
Resort with
overnight
accommodation,
sailboats, fishing
and bird watching
facilities. The
resort is managed by
STDC (Sindh Tourism
Development
Corporation) (tel.
778-8530), Sea
Breeze Plaza, Shara-e-Faisal,
open 9:30 am-4:00
pm. In case you plan
to stay overnight at
the resort, it is
best to book in
advance,
particularly on
weekends and
holidays. |
