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History
Places to Visit >> Major Cities & Towns >> Lahore
Lahore FortThe historical events of the city of Lahore have dominated the Punjab and it would be true to say that the history of Lahore is in fact history of the Punjab. Many different names have been used for Lahore, which include Alahvar, Lahanaur, Lahanor, Lahanur, Lahavur, Lahor, Lahore, Lahur, Lanhor, Laohur, Lauhavar, Lauhor, Lauhur, Lavhur, Lohavar, Lohavar, Lohavur, Lohor, Lohu, Luhavar.

The city is believed to have been founded by the legendary Loh, son of the Hindu mythological figure Rama, and was subsequently governed by several Hindu dynasties.

Did Lahore exist when Alexander's Macedonian forces traversed the land of the Punjab in 4th century BC? Although not established conclusively from contemporary chronicles, the 19th century British archaeologist Alexander Cunningham is confident that the Amba Kapi ruins close to Lahore are the Amakatis, mentioned in historical accounts as being near Ptolemy's Labokla.

The first record of the existence of Lahore is provided by Hiuen Tsiang, a Chinese traveller, who mentions a Brahmanical city that he visited in AD 630 on his way to Jullunder. Alberuni (973-1050), the celebrated Muslim scientist from Central Asia, also mentions Lahore, though rather than the city it is the Kingdom of Lahore that he refers to, and mentions Mandhukur as the capital, believed to be the present-day Sialkot.

THE MUGHALS

BABUR

As is well known, it was in 1526 that Babur with his lean, welltrained army was able to defeat the Mughal Emperor Baburincumbent Emperor Ibrahim Lodhi's forces—one hundred thousand troops and one thousand elephants—in the battle of Panipat and thus established his rule in Hindustan. The Mughal rule heralded a period of prosperity and stability to the province and to Lahore city itself. Babur is thought to have visited Lahore during the last year of his reign, when Mirza Kamran received him in the garden that the latter had built on the banks of the river Ravi.

The events of Humayun's grave illness are well known, along with Babur's self-surrender to save his son with the prayer, "0 God! if a life may be exchanged for a life, I who am Babur, I give my life and being for Humayun."

After the death of Zahiruddin Muhammad Babur Padishah Ghazi in December 1530, Humayun assumed the reins of power. By all accounts, Humayun was a sensitive monarch. A great bibliophile, he was also a credible poet. He was born into a family of poets, both his father Babur and his brother Kamran being known for their dewans (collection of poetry).

HUMAYUN

This first period of Humayun's reign was a turbulent one. It was fraught with difficulties for him not only from the contender, the Afghan Sher Shah Suri, but also from his own step brothers including Mirza Mughal Emperor HumayunHindal and the ambitious Mirza Kamran. Kamran having taken over the charge of Kabul, Qandahar as well as of Lahore.

In the wake of Sher Shah's attacks, Humayun was forced to leave Agra and hasten towards Lahore. The city became the focal point in an attempt to save at least a part of the empire. Humayun, along with his entourage and Chaghatai sultans and amirs halted for three 'months in Lahore in order to negotiate with Sher Shah Sur's emissaries. He sent the following message to Sher Shah. "What-justice is there in this? I have left you the whole of Hindustan. Leave Lahore alone, and let Sirhind, where you are, be a boundary between you and me." Sher Shah in his rejoinder declared: 'I have left you Kabul. You should go there." In view of Sher Shah's relentless pursuit and the imminent arrival of his forces, Lahore saw the largest exodus of people that it had ever witnessed — 200,000 of its inhabitants fled the city in one day!

Having stalked the Mughal army for some distance, Sher Shah arrived in Lahore, appointing his able general Khwas Khan Viceroy of the province.

After being hit by a bursting shell (1545), Sher Khan Sur, as he lay dying, regretted that he had not razed the city of Lahore to the ground, "for," he said, "such a large city should not exist on the very road of an invader, who immediately after capturing it on his arrival, could collect his supplies and organize his resources there."

Humayun's flight to Persia and his exile at the court of Shah Tahmasp is well known. The death of Islam Shah, son of Sher Shah in 1554, and dissensions among the Afghan princes paved the way for Humayun's bid for the recapture of Babur's empire. After an exile of fourteen long years, from Kabul he embarked on his journey to Hindustan. On hearing of the impending arrival of the Mughal forces, Lahore once again witnessed a mass exit of its residents, when the Afghans of the city took to flight. After crossing the Indus from Peshawar Humayun marched to Lahore which played a pivotal role in fulfilling his ambitions. It was in Lahore city that he made a triumphant entry in 1554 to welcoming crowds.

Humayun himself did not live long after that, since he suffered a fatal fall on his library stairs in Delhi. Akbar, his young son, who was left in charge of the subah (province) of the Punjab was at Kalanor at the time and was crowned king by his ataliq (tutor), a Mughal nobleman named Bayram Khan.

AKBAR

In the early days of his rule, not only was Akbar threatened with external aggression, but his court itself was beset with intrigues. The Protector's Party was led by his ataliq and regent Bayram Khan, while the second one was led by Maham-Angah, the emperor's wetnurse.

During the early days as Akbar tried to consolidate his empire, it is ironic that the major threat to Lahore should have been posed by his half-brother Mirza Muhammad Hakim. Hakim first was closely followed by Akbar himself who made a triumphant entry into Kabul.

Having consolidated his empire, Akbar turned his gaze towards the northwest and established his capital in Lahore. It was the Timurid preoccupation with Afghanistan and Transoxiana (Mawarunnahar, across the Oxus, the present Central Asia), parts of which had been held by Babur at one time, that in 1585 led Akbar to establish his court in Lahore for an extended period of time.

The court chronicler AbulFazlAllami explained the motivation behind Akbar's decision: "His [the Mughal Emperor Akbaremperor's] sole thought was that he would stay for a while in the Punjab, and would give peace to the Zabuli Land (Afghanistan), cleanse Swad and Bajaur of the stain of rebellion, uproot the thorn of the Tarikian [also known as the Roshnais] from Tirah and Bangash, seize the garden of Kashmir, and bring the populous country of Tatta (Scinde) within the empire. Furthermore he would send a glorious army thither, and follow it up in person. With these profound views he resolved to spend some time in Lahore." The 'some time' would extend to fourteen years (1585 to December 1598) during which period Lahore would become the capital of the Mughal Empire.

This period became the most important phase for Lahore, and can be rightly considered its golden period, since apart from a commercial hub, the city also became the cultural capital of the empire. Abul Fazi enthusiastically reported, "It is the resort of people of all countries whose manufactures present an astonishing display and it is beyond measure remarkable in populous ness and extent." During this time various Portuguese missionaries attended Akbar's court and Father Monserrate, as the tutor of his son Murad, traveled in his train and penned a graphic account of the period. Eulogising Lahore, Monserrate declared "This city is second to none, either in Asia or in Europe, with regard to size, population, and wealth. It is crowded with merchants, who foregather there from all over Asia. In all these respects it excels other cities, as also in the huge quantity of every kind of merchandise which is imported."

It is evident that the fame of the Mughal Empire and of Lahore itself had reached the four corners of the earth and the city received many English visitors such as Ralph Fitch, John Newberry, William Leedes, Storey and John Mildenhall.

The construction of the citadel was taken up in earnest by Akbar. After having built Agra and Fatehpur Sikri as impressive capitals, Lahore was taken up as an Akbari showcase for the best of architectural ensembles of the period. Abul Fazi confirmed that "many splendid buildings" had been erected and "delightful gardens" laid by Akbar which lent the city "additional beauty."

During the latter part of Akbar's reign, there had been disagreement between the emperor and his son Salim, when the latter established himself in Allahabad with the title of Shah Salim, and Akbar became inclined towards his grandson Prince Khusraw as successor. It was not surprising then, that in spite of the rapprochement between Salim and Akbar, Khusraw, a favorite of his grandfather, aspired to become emperor.

JAHANGIR

After the death of Akbar, the drama that unfolded itself at the outset of Jahangir's reign was enacted on the Lahore stage. Prince Khusraw, born of Rajput aristocrat Raja Man Singh's sister titled Shah Begam (d. 1013/1605), and son-in-law of Akbar's foster brother, Khan-e-Azam Aziz Koka, had been a favourite of his grandfather and considered "the most popular prince in the empire." Soon after Jahangir's Mughal Emperor Jahangiraccession (April 1606), Khusraw broke into open rebellion, left Agra with 350 of his men and fled to Lahore. He was joined by Husain Beg, the son of Mirza Shah Rukh, and Abdul- Rahim, son of Bayram Khan. By the time Khusraw reached Lahore, the number of his followers had risen to 12,000. In spite of his exhorting his troops to attack Lahore and the promise of booty from the city's seven-day-plunder, the recently strengthened citadel fortifications thwarted his design.

Hot in pursuit, the emperor arrived in Mirza Kamran's garden, and was in no mood to show leniency, declaring, "Kingship regards neither son nor son-in-law. No one is a relation to a king." Captured while trying to cross the river Chenab, a crushed Khusraw was brought into the presence of the emperor. Jahangir recorded in his Tuzuk (Jahangir's memoirs) that Khusraw was brought, "weeping and trembling," between his two friends Husain Beg and Abdul-Rahim, "his hands tied and chains on his legs from the left side after the manner of Chingiz Khan." Khusraw was ordered into confinement and his two friends placed alive in skins of animals, and further humiliated by being placed on assses with their faces to the tail. Although Abdul-Rahim survived the ordeal, Husain Beg died of suffocation. Khusraw was forced to traverse the route to the citadel on an elephant, to witness the gruesome spectacle of the bodies of 300 of his followers impaled on stakes lining the route from Mirza Kamran's garden to the fort.

Another victim of the struggle for the imperial crown was Guru Arjun, who had placed a good fortune mark on Khusraw's head when the latter had visited him. The Sikh Guru had to pay for his indiscretion by being confined to jail. He died in captivity — his followers believing that he had disappeared miraculously in the waters of the Ravi.

Conquered and consolidated by his father, Jahangir had been given a 'large and prosperous empire' the boundaries of which stretched from the confines of Persia in the west to the Bay of Bengal in the east, and from the northern region of Kashmir to the southern limit of Ahmadnagar in the Deccan. Jahangir was "thought to be the greatest emperor of the East for wealth, land, and force of men, as also for horses, elephants, camels and dromedaries."

With the riches of the proverbial seven kings at his disposal, it was no surprise that lavish spending governed the emperor's lifestyle. A royal patron par excellence, Jahangir was entirely enamored with the art of painting and referred repeatedly to his enjoyment in viewing works of arts and the exploits of his court painters. His consistent patronage of the arts was due mainly to the generally peaceful conditions in a vast empire that had been consolidated by his father; but also to the indolent temperament of Jahangir himself—harboring greater fondness for tiger-hunting and hawking, fishing and boating than for warfare.

His consort, the famous NurJahan, whom he married in 1611, became a patron of art and architecture in her own right. Nur Jahan,' born Mihrunnisa (b. 1577-1645), was the daughter ofKhwaja (Mirza) Ghiyasuddin Muhammad Ghiyas Beg Taharani, an immigrant from Persia, who along with his family had fled to Hindustan, and rose to exalted positions in the cosmopolitan court of Akbar, later becoming finance minister and a trusted noble at Jahangir's court. On his death in 1621, Nur Jahan assumed the position of finance minister, and her drums and orchestra were sounded after those of the king.

With the enormous wealth at her disposal, earned from revenues from her fakirs (fiefs) such as Ramsar (in the vicinity of Ajmer), or Parganah of Boda (with the revenue of Rupees 200,000), she built extravagantly and entertained lavishly, constructing pleasure gardens, palaces, lofty tombs and elegant serais throughout the empire.

Jahangir set up his capita] in Lahore in 1622, but even before that he had made preparations for his stay by despatching Abdul Karim Mamur Khan, his favorite architect, to build several palaces in the citadel—the chronicles recording how Prince Khurram (later Shahjahan) made haste to Lahore to inspect the palace buildings that were being completed at the time.

The last years of Jahanagir's reign were extremely troublesome. The year 1031/1622 was particularly inauspicious: He himself continued to be unwell; his mother Maryamuzzamani died in Agra; Qandahar Jahangir Tombswas lost; and his once favourite Khurram (later Shahjahan), now out of favour and referred to as bidaulat 'that wretch', remained a source of trouble, even though he was on the run.

Jahangir died in Rajauri in 1627, on his return journey from Kashmir. A lasting link of Jahangir with the city of Lahore would be established when his body was sent to Lahore with an escort and buried on Friday in Nur Jahan's garden at Shahdara. His mausoleum, supervised by Nur Jahan, with its four towering corner towers, took ten years to build, cost ten lakhs of rupees and became a major landmark of the city.

Jahangir's death resulted in a tussle between the Nur Jahan faction and that of her brother Asaf Khan. Nur Jahan wished for the enthronement of her son-in-law, Shahryar, the husband of her daughter Ladii Begam from her first husband, while Asaf Khan, the father-in-law of Prince Khurram was obviously keen to see the latter assume the throne. In the absence of Khurram—a thousand miles and three months' journey away in the Dakhin—Yaminuddawla Asaf Khan acted swiftly, and as a first step placed his recently widowed sister under guard. Having contained the Shahryar-Nur Jahan threat, Asaf Khan dispatched a fleet-footed runner, along with his muhur (signet ring) to Khurram urging him to claim the throne in Agra at the earliest possible moment. In Lahore he placed Shahjahan's nephew, Dawar Bakhsh (also named Bulaqi), on the throne—a sacrificial lamb, in whose name the khutba was read after Friday prayers, and coins struck in the mint of Lahore. A gory drama was played out in Lahore when a number of Mughal princes were assassinated, including the unfortunate Shahryar, and the recently declared emperor Dawar Bakhsh, as soon as it was clear that Shahjahan had assumed the throne in Agra.

SHAHJAHAN

On 1 February 1628 Shahjahan entered the city of Agra with "great pomp and splendour mounted on an elephant." Adopting the elaborate title of 'Abul Muzaffar Shihab al-Din Muhamad, Sahib-Qiran Sani (Sahib-Qiran II, the title of Amir Temur), Shahjahan Padshah Ghazi' Khurram "ascended the throne in the Akbarabad (Agra) fort" on Monday, 14 February, 1628.

Shahjahan, considered a remarkably handsome and cultured man, had exquisite taste, and being Mughal Emperor Shahjahanexceedingly partial to rare and beautiful objects, became known as a great patron of arts and architecture. At the same time, the wide-ranging experience and tactical skill acquired by him when still a prince, stood him in good stead in the governance of his empire.

Shahjahan's love for the architectural tour de force became legendary. The grandeur attained by his architectural edifices was due not only to the enormous resources expended but also the profound personal attention of the emperor, for, the chronicler declared, "He (Shahjahan) alone possesses the discriminating eye." From the famed Taj Mahal alone, which he built in memory of his favorite wife Mumtaz Mahal, who died in childbirth in 1631, Shahjahan's architectural flair can be gauged.

Lahore, the city of his birth, was much favored by the emperor, and prospered greatly as the second capital of the empire. From the account of Fra Sebastian Manrique, we learn that Lahore flowered when Shahjahan resided there for an extended period as he did on his second visit (22 November 1638 to November 1642).

This ruler had the foresight to appoint governors, such as Ali Mardan Khan and Hakim Aliuddin, better known as Wazir Khan, who adorned the city with beautiful structures. Shahjahan himself was keen that the citadel should acquire the best architectural edifices that the empire had to offer. Accordingly, directives were given, almost immediately after his accession, to undertake building works at the Lahore palace for the extension of Shah Burj and the fortification wall begun during Jahangir's reign. By the time Shahjahan arrived on his first visit (1634), the work on various buildings in the quadrangle of Shah Burj, also known as Mussaman Burj, had been completed, as was the great mural wall depicting images in brilliant kashi kari (tile mosaic) work.

Thus the Lahore palace acquired the Naulakha Pavilion and the Shish Mahal constructed in the Shah Burj, as it did the chihil sntun (forty-pillared) of Diwan-e-Aam (Public Audience Hall), providing cover to those participating in the daily ritual of the court. Later constructions include a palace building, Diwan-e-Khass, and the well-crafted Moti Masjid (Pearl Mosque). The various projects undertaken by him for the enhancement of the fort and the gardens laid out by him such as the spectacular Shalamar Gardens speak of his attachment to the city of Lahore.

Shahjahan's visits to Lahore were quite frequent, not least because of his love for Kashmir and the need to spend the hot months in that cool verdant valley. His last visit to Lahore was in 1652. He was to see the second capital nor his beloved Kashmir again. Within six years, during the struggle for the crown among his sons, his favorite Prince Dara Shikoh Buland Iqbal, would be defeated and killed by Prince Aurangzeb, and he himself imprisoned in the palace of Akbarabad until his death in 1076/1666.

Prince Dara Shikoh was the Mughal prince most closely associated with the city of Lahore. For many years he had been viewed as the heir to the Mughal throne. Dara, a poet and a philosopher, was a liberal in the tradition of his great-grandfather Akbar. With wide religious sympathies, inclined towards Sufism, he was tolerant of Hinduism as well as of Christianity. However, in a Hindustan where the process of governance according to precepts of the Islamic Shariah had been started by Shahjahan, "Dara's 'emancipated' ideas did him more harm than good, and formed a pretext for his destruction."

Aurangzeb & Later Mughals

The third son of Shahjahan, Aurangzeb became a serious contender to the throne. A confident Dara, with the weight of Shahjahan's authority behind him, and backed by an enormous army and artillery, was forced to embark on counteracting Aurangzeb's bid for power. As is well-known, Dara lost a winning battle at Samugarh (later named Fathabad by Aurangzeb) when he decided to heed Khalilullah Mughal Emperor AurangzebKhan and dismounted his lofty elephant to ride a horse. After his disastrous defeat, Dara, ashamed to face his father, fled, taking with him his family and "as much treasure and stores as he could."

Dara Shikoh had arrived in Lahore (13 July 1658), the city which he loved. Lahore in return rose to his support, providing him an army of 20,000 horsemen with which to withstand Aurangzeb's onslaught. But Aurangzeb, within six days of coronation, decided to set out in pursuit of his eldest brother. As the pursuing army reached Sutlej river (24 August, 1658), Dara, left Lahore in panic and retreated.

With the numbers of his army depleted at every step, the unfortunate Dara fled from Multan to Uchch, Sukkur and Bhakkar, Sehwan and Thatta and to Rann of Kacch. After the battle at Deorai, two kos (miles) from Ajmer, and left with barely 2,000 followers, he decided to retrace his steps and flee to Iran via the Bolan Pass and Qandahar, as his ancestor Humayun had done. However, once his beloved wife Nadira Begam, daughter of his uncle Sultan Parvez, succumbed to exhaustion and dysentery, he was left with little motivation to continue. Against the advice of his son SipihrShikoh, he despatched the remaining troops with his wife's body to Lahore to be buried where her dignified mausoleum was built in the shadow of the shrine of Dara's'spiritual guide', the saint Mian Mir.

The gruesome scene that was played out at the beginning of Shahjahan's reign in Lahore, was re-enacted in Shahjahanabad by Aurangzeb, when the emperor's brother and his nephew were captured. They were both murdered on 8 September 1659, after the indignity and public humiliation of being shackled and paraded through the streets of the capital.

With the death of Dara Shikoh, the golden period of Lahore was over. Aurangzeb was engaged in trying to maintain the empire in the face of the onslaught from the Marathas and other disgruntled states. The Later Mughals, particularly Shah Alam were partial to Lahore, but it never again enjoyed the •status of second capital that it had during the reign of the first three Great Mughals.

The decaying Mughal Empire was hardly in a position to nurture Lahore. As capital of an outlying province there was little that could be done to protect it. The province was exposed to recurring insurrections, during which time the Sikhs managed to assume ascendancy. The attacks by the Afghan Ahmed Shah Durrani, who eventually gave over the governance of Lahore to the Sikhs, devastated the city. The rise of Ranjit Singh and his acquisition of chieftainship from Shah Zaman, the Afghan king, brought Lahore and the Punjab under full control of the Sikhs.

The Sikhs and the British

Though Lahore became important as an outpost required by the growing power of the British to secure the northwest borders, there was much destruction of historic buildings during that period. During their initial contact, the British valued and nurtured their relationship with the Sikhs, but the inter-Sikh wars and the First Anglo-Sikh War on the battleground of Mudki, Ferozeshah, and Sobraon provided the opportunity for them to seize control of the Punjab.

As a result of the Anglo-Sikh treaty signed in Lahore in March 1846, a British force was stationed in the fort. By December 1846 another convention was signed which resulted in a permanent cantonment for the British troops which were garrisoned in Anarkali, and thus the tomb of Anarkali was converted into a garrison church. This arrangement was intended to last for another eight years until the infant Maharaja Dulip Singh had attained his majority. However, when Mulraj rebelled in Multan, the Second Anglo-Sikh War on the battleground of Multan and Gujrat heralded the total ascendancy of the British. On March 29, 1849, the sovereignty of the Punjab passed from the hands of the Sikh Maharaja to the British Resident, Sir Henry Lawrence. Dulip Singh was provided an annuity of £ 50,000 in lieu of the Kohinoor diamond and the state of the Punjab. The British colors were hoisted from the ramparts of Lahore citadel declaring Lahore to be the capital of a British province.

For the next 100 years, the British endeavor to beautify Lahore in the manner of the Great Mughals paid dividends in the form of spectacular structures. These impressive buildings adorned the city of Lahore, and at the same time the local inhabitants and local merchant princes, impressed by the new architectural idiom built imperial-vernacular structures, intermixing the local motifs with European classical or gothic imagery. The style that really flourished well on the soil of the Punjab was the brick-based Anglo-Mughal architecture, which due to the enthusiasm of artist-teachers such as Lockwood Kipling resulted in some spectacular buildings using the exquisite craftsmanship that existed in the province. During the early years of occupation there was considerable tampering with the perimeter walls of the walled city and the citadel to ensure proper surveillance. Many buildings were adapted and altered to fulfill the requirements of the rulers, but by the end of the 19th century, the realization of the importance of the cultural heritage of the subcontinent resulted in a new awakening for its protection and restoration.
 
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