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Firangi Rahguzar
Places to Visit >> Major Cities & Towns >> Lahore
Miscellaneous

In case you would like to visit some other interesting British Period buildings, we suggest a detour from Charing Cross towards the northeast via Khalifa Shujauddin Road (formerly Egerton Road). This road will take you past Faletti's, an old world-style hotel. At the junction of the famous Shimla (Simla) Hill if you turn left on Empress Road you will be able to view three churches on the way to Naulakha area and the quaint Railway Station.

Early Churches

The first church that you will encounter on the left (west) is St. Anthony's Church. The neo-Gothic building is dominated by its tall octagonal tower which marks the entrance vestibule as well. Other predominant architectural features include the recurring solid masonry buttresses and tiled pitched roofs which lend the church a special character. Although comparatively simple in plan, and carrying little flourish of ornamentation, the church is striking in its unaffected demeanor and a lofty nave of handsome proportions.

You might like to walk to the rear of the compound where you will find a white-washed single-storey structure with massive brick walls and cusped arched verandah, reminiscent of 19th century bungalows of the city.

Opposite the church on the east is the impressive North Western Railway Headquarters. It is a brick structure, echoing the transparent air of veranda arcading seen in several other buildings of the period, e.g. Deputy Commissioner's office encountered in the early part of this rahguzar.

A little further north of the Railway Headquarters and set back from the road (Empress Road) is St. Andrew's Church with its calm and quiet compound. It is an attractive church built with mellow red Lahori brick. In contrast to its neighbor St. Anthony's across the road, St. Andrew's relies on Roman arched openings on the ground, while twin Romanesque windows adorn the belfry tower.

This octagonal tower punctured by Roman arch openings ends in a decorative flourish and a cupola. The pitched roofs of the nave and side ambulatory covered with simple metallic covering point towards an economical construction. Although originally the church came about as a result of a makeshift arrangement, the building is impressive in its simplicity and unadorned, unpretentious architectural character.

According to Latif, the church was constructed over the grave of Muhammad Saleh Kamboh, the court chronicler of Emperor Shahjahan and his brother Inayatullah. Muhammad Saleh tomb, originally faced with red sandstone, suffered much damage during the Sikh Period when the domed section was utilized as a powder magazine. After British annexation, the structure served as a residence of an 'English gentleman' and became known as Seymour Sahib Ki Kothi—the domed portion being used as a carriage house. However, when the structure was converted into a church, side rooms were added, and it became known as St. Andrew's Railway Church.

As in the case of other such establishments, the church authorities have ensured that no encroachments or buildings are constructed to undermine the original historic structures and surrounding open spaces.

Another interesting church located in close proximity on Nicholson Road is the Presbyterian Church at the comer of Boharwala Chowk (crossing of Nicholson Road and Allama Iqbal Road). The church is sited in a small compound and does not have the expansive grounds as in the case of some of the other churches.

If you are interested in Mughal architecture, you could go straight (east) across Allama Iqbal Road, and see one of the most spectacular Mughal monuments, the Mosque of Dai Anga, that once did duty as the office of Traffic Superintendent.

Railway Station

Turning left (northwest) on Boharwala Chowk you will find yourself on Allama Iqbal Road, one of the several roads that converge on the historically important railway station. This was literally the first purpose-built British imperial building, its foundation stone haying been laid by John Lawrence in 1859, and it cost half a million rupees to build.

With scars of the 1857 ghaddar fresh in the minds of the rulers and fear of mutiny, it is not surprising that the railway station was designed as a fortified castle, complete with "bastions at the angles of 'keeps' or towers rising above them." Historian Latif noted that these towers "command the several approaches and provide for a flanking defense of the curtains or outsides of the station, which also are loop-holed for musketry fire over the surrounding neighborhood. This fire can be further strengthened from the several towers and turrets which overlook and command all surroundings in the immediate vicinity of the station. These arrangements appear to be all that is necessary to secure the station against an attack with small arms or against a sudden rush."

At the time one of the major concerns was the safety of railway employees, and accordingly, the building was designed to provide accommodation for "refuge of the Railway staff and others in any time of danger." Constructed entirely of brick masonry, its quaint square turrets rise above the main structure and carry large clocks which could be visible from great distances, once again underscoring the importance of time that an industrialized society such as England was keen to inculcate in the local public.

The earliest of the Raj structures of Lahore, few railway stations can present a picturesque view such as this. The station provides a grand setting for the important railway junction that Lahore became ever since the first train was run to Amritsar in 1860. Later, when linkages had been established with Bombay, Calcutta and Peshawar, and in 1889 with Karachi, Lahore contributed significantly to making Karachi the largest exporter of wheat by transporting wheat from Punjab's canal colonies.

During the Second Anglo-Afghan War (1878), Lahore played a key role by facilitating the passage of 75 trains every 24 hours to carry troops and provisions to the war destination.

Famous Schools

To return to our original route of the Upper Mall, we will need to double back on Allama Iqbal Road, and turn right onto Durand Road (since Empress Road is one way). It is on this road that two famous young women's institutions are located—Queen Mary College and the Convent of Jesus and Mary. Queen Mary College is a school which originally operated on the same principle as Aitchison College, and was opened for the daughters of the chiefs and rajas. It was built in 1912-13 and followed the popular Anglo-Mughal style. The college has played a crucial role in the education of women. Many women belonging to older generations, who took on challenging tasks, owe much to their education at Queen Mary's College.

Along with the convent. Queen Mary's has educated generations of Lahorites.

Old Anarkali Buildings

The Upper Mall Heritage

Charing Cross Group

Miscellaneous

Imperial Edifices

G.O.R. & Cantonment Buildings

 
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