Ahata-e-Shahjahan or Shahjahan's Quadrangle

On the left (west) of Ahata-e-Jahangiri is situated a much smaller quad, 150' x 150' square, named after Emperor Shahjahan.

The quad incorporates a chahar bagh, its four sections divided with walkways and central axis marked by a 31' x 31' marble platform incorporating a water reservoir (hauz). A 19th century account by Ph. Vogel describes a silver gilt pavilion that was placed on the platform. As in the case of many Sikh ornaments and bric-a-brac, the silver pavilion was sold by auction by John Login in 1848 after he took over the fort as governor (known as the killadar, in charge of the fort).

In view of the number of buildings named after Shahjahan or attributed to him, along with evidence of his favorite building material—white marble—being utilized in buildings as well as in paving and garden platforms, it is evident that this was among the favorite residential areas for the emperor on his visits to Lahore. The marble paving is no longer in place since it was stripped and taken to be utilized in the new church built at Mian Mir during the 1850s.

The quadrangle is bordered by a building known as 'Khwabgah-e-Shahjahani', contiguous to which is the royal hammam, while the northern periphery is dominated by the elegant white marble pavilion known as Diwan-e-Khass.

As in the case of the earlier Jahangir's Quadrangle, the northern periphery boasts the most important structure in the quad, an elegant white marble baradari marking the central axis—known as Diwan-e-Khass. This building is sometimes referred to as Chotti Khhwabgah or Khwabgah-e-Khurd (Minor Sleeping Chamber). Although reconstructed due to damage caused to it during the Sikh rule, the baradari probably retains much of its original character.

Diwan-e-Khass

At present known as Diwan-e-Khass, this marble pavilion was in the past referred to as Chotti Khwabgah, also as Khwabgah-e-Khurd (Minor Sleeping Chamber)—the name khwabgah most probably being an appellation given by the Sikhs. The building also did duty as the garrison church during the British occupation of the fort, when the elegant fountain and the marble screens in the north were filled with concrete. At the time a baptismal font was placed in the central alcove, a place which 19th century archaeologist Henry Cole noted, "Shahjahan would most likely have selected for his couch to catch the air through the marble lattice." The building was reconstructed during the British period restorations, utilizing the original elements, but it is likely that the roof structure was modified during reconstruction.

Most scholars agree that this is the sangi-i-murmur pavilion which Shahjahan came to inspect in the fort in 1645, since this is the only extant building built entirely of marble (except for the Moti Masjid) which overlooks the river.

With an almost square footprint 52' x 52', there are an equal number of arched bays on all four facades. The north aspect sports massive wall-like piers which form vaulted alcoves, while the remaining portion of the building carries a coved roof supported on classical Mughal columns. Due to its hypostyle character the pavilion has an elegant transparent air.

When the Ravi flowed along the north fortification wall, the cusped arched openings on the north, carrying marble geometric fretwork screens incorporating viewing windows would have provided a delightful prospect.

Also worth examining are the poly faceted columns and stalactite capitals. While in the building, you must also examine the beautifully crafted scalloped white marble fountain—a neat device to cool the air wafting in through the open pavilion. Its basin hollowed out in the floor of the central bay, though ravaged, still contains vestiges of courtly pietra dura. The flooring is also neatly executed, and the fine black inlay pattern in white marble in the flooring of the two alcoves is a treat. These patterns will be seen recurring in the Naulakha Pavilion and the Shish Mahal in the Shah Burj Quad, discussed later in this rahguzar. You might also like to notice the fine pietra dura work in the parapet encircling the building.

If it is Shahjahan's Diwan-e-Khass, this is where the emperor would review? the petitions of subehdars (governors) through wakil (an advocate) or wazir (a minister) once they had been processed by the royal prince in charge of correspondence, and before sending them to be stamped by the royal seal. The seal would be in the custody of the emperor's first born Begam Sahib Jahan Ara Begam, his wife Mumtaz Mahal having passed away.

Arzgah

As you look down from the viewing windows of the Diwan-e-Khass, immediately below you will notice a dilapidated structure, used as a stable during the British Period. This is labeled Arzgah on Sikh period maps, referring to it as a platform from where petitions and complaints were heard in public by the ruler. Although it is likely to be a Mughal Period structure its date is uncertain—its walls having no bond with the fortification wall against which it is constructed, indicating its construction at a later date than the north fortification wall.

It is conjectured that this is the place where the omarah would assemble in the morning to receive the emperor's commands. It is likely that it was constructed as a complementary structure to the Diwan-e-Khass, since it is located immediately below and at the same axis as the former building.

Intizar Gah

The building on the northeast corner of the quad is presently used as the Archaeological Rest House. Since a lot of reconstruction took place during 1935-36, it is difficult to date this building. However, this much can be asserted with confidence, namely that the eastern portion of this structure belongs to the original iwans bordering Jahangir's Quadrangle.

The reconstruction and additions are an attempt to match the architectural outlook of Shahjahan's Diwan-e-Khass rather than the Akbari iwans of Jahangir's Quadrangle.

The large semi-octagonal structure that you see at the northern end of the western periphery is popularly referred to as 'Lal Burj' (the Scarlet Tower), a Sikh appellation. The eastern periphery of the quadrangle is bordered by the western iwan of Jahangir's Quadrangle;

Khwabgah-e-Shahjahani

Khwabgah-e-Shahjahani is a large building dominating the southern periphery of the quad, and marked as 'marble baradari' on Sikh Period maps.

A rather heavy-set building, and not a baradari (baradari= a pavilion with 12 openings), it might have carried marble cladding at one time. Today it is bereft of most decorative features, with just a trace of the marble which might once have beautified the facade. This is not surprising in view of the damage inflicted on it. Vogel's reports indicate that a projecting portico in the centre was "ruthlessly cut off" during the 1850s. The only indication of the extent of the portico today is the slightly raised platform incorporating a finely sculpted marble scalloped fountain.

If it is the khwabgah then it can be inferred from historical sources that it was built in 1634 and was among the first Shahjahani buildings of the fort. The chronicles inform us that Shahjahan's first visit to Lahore as emperor took place during the seventh regnal year (1634). At this time he reviewed the palace buildings critically from the point of view of his own residence.

A contemporary court historian Muhammad Saleh Kumboh informs us that the emperor turned his attention to the repair of palace buildings, which had been neglected over the years. He also decided to reconstruct the buildings of "the Ghusul Khana (bathroom) and Khwabgah" since the existing palace buildings, probably those dating to Jahangir's period, "were not in reality pleasing to the Imperial mind in their plan and style." It is probably the same building which was entrusted to the Governor of Lahore Wazir Khan, when Shahjahan was on his way to his sojourn in Kashmir. However, the famed tile-mosaic extensively used by Wazir Khan in some of his other constructions, e.g. the Wazir Khan Mosque or the Shahi Hammam in the Walled City is not in evidence.

The structure is commodious with lofty chambers. Its location on the central axis, and its closeness to the imperial zenana quarters of Jahangir's Quadrangle, is an evidence of its importance as being reserved for royal usage. It could be a khwabgah as the present appellation suggests. On the other hand, the existence of a hammam contiguous to it may point towards its being Daulat Khana-e-Khass. This was the important venue what Akbar called the. ghusitl khana, where he would relax after having attended the court in"the Diwan-e-Aam. It is where confidante courtiers received admittance and many matters of state were discussed.

You will be impressed by the building's arcuate construction, resulting in lofty interiors, incorporating arches, squinches, vaults and qalibkari muaarnas (stalactite squinches), elements which are expressive of the best of Mughal structural techniques.

There has been much tampering with it, however, inflicting great damage to its internal features, and the interior has been largely divested of its decorative features. There are some unfortunate samples of more recent tampering consisting of badly-executed mirror work and incised plaster work, as well as indiscriminate plastering, blocking of walls and earlier Sikh Period paintings, which have together destroyed the original spatial character of this splendid structure.

Among its noteworthy elements are the three finely carved marble fretwork screens fitted into the cusped arched openings. Although somewhat damaged, you will find almost exact replicas of these screens in the Shah Burj in the Shish Mahal and the Nulakha Pavilion (described later in this rahguzar).

Hammam-e-Badshahi

When during the seventh regnal year (1634) Shahjahan made his first visit to Lahore, as mentioned above, he reviewed the palace buildings critically from the point of view of his own residence. At that time along with construction of a khwabgah, a new ghusul khana was also ordered.

Contiguous to Khwabgah-e-Shahjahni on its west are the remains of the Hammam-e-Badshahi (the imperial hammam), a structure built by Shahjahan. The hammam, known as the Sheron-Wala Hammam during the Sikh period due to the spouts in the form of lion's heads, is in an extremely damaged condition. This is not surprising since the structure did duty as servants quarters during the British Period.

The research during the late 1920s by Moulvi Zafar Hassan of the Archaeological Survey of India has shown that the royal baths incorporated two different enclaves—the eastern chambers for imperial use and the western for the royal harem. The zenana section is no longer extant since it was demolished to make way for a roadway during the occupation of the fort by British troops.

Although you cannot enter the extant portion of the hammam, its remains show the footprints of an elaborate arrangement. The structure was based on arcuate construction and its several chambers incorporated a reservoir with fountains, a cold room (sard khana), a hot room (garam khana) and dressing rooms in addition to latrines. There were cubicles for changing as well as for furnaces to warm the water in the reservoirs, along with providing hot air for the chambers. Plans are afoot to restore and present the various sections of the hammam to the visitors.

Diwan-e-Aam Quadrangle

Moti Masjid Quadrangle

Jahangir's Quadrangle

Shahjahan's Quadrangle

Paien Bagh & Khilwat Khana Quadrangle

Shah Burj or Royal Tower