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Sufi Rahguzar
Places to Visit >> Major Cities & Towns >> Lahore
Shalamar Link Road Shrines

Mian Wadda Khanqah Mosque and Dars(religious school) of Shaikh Mohammad Ismail alias Mian Wadda

It is best to retrace your steps to G.T. Road, where a little further east, opposite the Shalamar Gardens, Shalamar Link Road (earlier Mughalpura Road) leads south.

A road, almost a mile down from Shalamar Gardens and short of Mughalpura Bridge, leads west from Shalamar Link Road and provides access to the khancjah (monastery) and mosque of Mian Wadda or Baray Mian da Dars, as it is known locally.

An old whitewashed gateway with a small marble plaque leads the way into this extraordinary enclosure. As you step in the gateway you enter a world of peace and serenity with an atmosphere proclaiming reverence. Enclosed from all sides, in this large compound, a short covered passage leads past some cloisters, which are part of the langar khana (soup-kitchen).

On the right is a courtyard, which doubles as extension to the mosque located beyond the courtyard on the right. A tomb with a green dome located on the south west corner of the courtyard belongs to saint Muhammad Din. The verandah-like passage leads to a small arched doorway on the left, and into another similar verandah-passage. In the midst of a large graveyard, is the tomb of the great saint, which, in deference to his wishes, is without a roof to this day. The platform containing his katcha (unbuilt) grave is shared by his lieutenants Shaikh Jan Mohammad, Shaikh Hafiz Mahmood and Shaikh Mohammad Saleh.

Shaikh Mohammad Ismail (d. 1095/1683) completed his discipleship with Makhdum Abdul Karim of Langar Makhdum on the Chenab. He was a great scholar who built his madrassah (school) with a large number of cloisters, along with the mosque, during the reign of Emperor Akbar in 1008/1599. The area was then known as Mohallah Tailwara or Tailpura. It was here that he gave dars or religious instruction—the reason behind the popular name Bare Mian da Dars (The Place of the Elder Saint's Religious Instructions)—and blazed the path of enlightenment to thousands in the fields of theology, jurisprudence, Hadith (sayings of th Prophet) and Tafsir (commentary on the Quran).

Many successive rulers were his devotees, which accounts for the large enclosure of the madrassah and graveyard: Emperor Shahjahan, a devout disciple granted a gift of land, while Emperor Aurangzeb granted seven wells and constructed a hostel, and is also reputed to have built his tomb. However, the present structure is obviously a more recent construction. The Sikh ruler Ranjit Singh and many of his sirdars were also disciples of the saint.

The mosque itself is one of the ancient mosques of Lahore, and is believed to have been constructed in part during Emperor Akbar's reign, with additions by Shahjahan. The Mughal portion of the mosque is defined by four minarets on the four corners and a shallow dome defining the central chamber.

According to Kannahiya Lal, the khanqah became inadvertently embroiled in the Sikh war of succession, when during the reign of the infant Dulip Singh, Suchit Singh, arriving from Jammu, forced himself into the khanqah and set up camp here. The opposing Khalsa army, on instructions from Hira Singh, opened fire, resulting in severely damaging the buildings and killing many of the derveshes (monks) residing in the khancfah.

The saint belonged to Suhrawardy silsila.

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