If you had taken the route to the south from the chowk (crossing) on Tehsil Road, Kucha Tehsil in the east is where the tehsildar (magistrate) of Lahore held forth in his court. Another reason for its fame is that Maulana Muhammad Husain Azad (d.1910), the great writer, once lived in this kucha. Author of the famous Dnrbar-i-Akbari, and professor of Persian and Arabic in Government College, he carried the well-deserved title of Shamsul-Ulema (the foremost scholar).

Taksalee Darwaza—sans a gateway—was named because of the taksal (royal mint) established by Shahjahan that was once located in its proximity. Inside the entrance of Taksalee Darwaza you will encounter Jamia Masjid Taksalee Gate. The existence of tile mosaic (kashi kari) and its name as Taxal-Wali Masjid (or the royal mint mosque) point towards its construction during the late Shahjahan/early Aurangzeb period.

The mosque is said to have been constructed by Abdullah Khan, a deputy of Fidai Khan, the foster brother of Aurangzeb and builder of the awesome Badshahi Mosque. The mosque consists of a single aisle, three-bay prayer chamber, the centre of which is defined by a tall Timurid aiwan doorway, and the whole crowned by three shallow domes. The mosque did duty for Sher Singh during the Sikh rule, later passing into possession of Hindu residents of the area. However, in 1868 the mosque, which according to Kanahhiya Lal, had "largely collapsed," was restored to the Muslims and was reconstructed.

If you take a right (south) turn after the shoe market, Thatti Moulahan Bazaar street leads you to Omar Chowk (formerly Samian Chowk), beyond which is located another ancient mosque. In spite of its antiquity, the mosque is surrounded by latter day structures and is barely visible from the street. The mosque, known as Masjid-e-khurd Wazir Khan (the Minor Mosque of Wazir Khan) was constructed by Wazir Khan, the famous grandee of Shahjahan's reign, who built the celebrated Wazir Khan Mosque near Dehli Gate. The mosque displays traces of the famous tile mosaic (kashi kari) of the Shahjahani period which was extensively used to embellish large surfaces, best of which offerings can be seen in the Pictured Wall of the Citadel.

The whole area adjacent to Taksalee Gate is said to have contained palaces and hammams of the powerful nawab Wazir Khan, an important, trusted aide of emperor Shahjahan who lived here as subehdar (governor) of Lahore.

To carry on our route, you will need to return to Omar Chowk, and turn right (east) into Gali Judge Latif (also known as Tibbi Bazaar Gali). This street had housed one of the most famous sons of Lahore, Syed Muhammad Latif (d. 1902), whose comprehensive His tory of Lahore has proved to be the most important source book for the last 120 years. A distinguished scholar, he is also the author of History of the Punjab, History of Multan and History of Agra. It is this bazaar which also became known because of the printing press set up by Sir Shahabuddin.

Going past the shrine of Pir Raza Shah Qadri, located on ground floor of a new structure, you arrive at Tibbi Chowk/Chakia Hakiman Walla Chowk. This is the meeting point of two streets and it is thus that the chowk (crossing) is referred to by both the names.

The chowk leads you towards Tibbi Bazaar (Tibbi is derived from tibba or mound, indicating its elevated position) and Bazaar Hakiman, off which was located a kucha known as Bhahron ki Tharrian. This is where Hakim Shahbaz Din's salon is reputed to have been held, which was frequented among others by three intellectual brothers, Khwaja Nabi Bakhsh, Khwaja Karim Bakshsh and Khawaja Amir Baksh whose fearless criticism was much sought after by young poets and weiters.

The intense intellectual activity and interaction among writers is evident from the close relationships and literary works that the gatherings spawned. For example, Khwaja Rahim Bakhsh's son Barrister Khwaja Ferozuddin, was brother-in-law of the famous poet Allama Muhammad Iqbal, and faameui Laghat (a comprehensive Urdu dictionary) was compiled by Khwaja Karim Bakhsh's son Khwaja Abdul Majid.

The Lal Masjid located on your left (east) was built by Fakir Syed Jamaluddin, whose house is loca ted in the vicinity. Close by is a small graveyard in which another illustrious member of the Fakir family. Fakir Syed Ghulam Mohiuddin, is buried.

The appellation of Bazaar Hakiman (Doctors' Row) is said to have been acquired due to the residence of Hakim Ilmuddiri, a physician and administrator of great repute who rose to exalted positions during Shahjahan's reign—more famous as Wazir Khan, a title given by Emperor Shahjahan, and mentioned above.

The street seems to have attracted many reputed physicians to the area, and was further popularized by Ranjit Singh's physician Fakir Syed Nooruddin. Addressed with his honorary title of 'khalifa Fakir is mentioned in 19th century chronicles as 'Runjeet's apothecary general' who prepared all the ruler's medicines, "as well as the favourite spirituous liquor." Later, the fame of the street was augmented by the matab (clinic) of the noted Hakim Hissamuddin, a physician with extraordinary healing touch for the rich and poor alike.

Apart from members of the Hakim and Fakir families many other famous personalities of the Punjab are associated with this street. Members of the Lahore elite including Chaudhry Ahmed, father of the famous poet Faiz Ahmad Faiz and Syed Maratab Ali Shah lived here, attracting a large number of notables and intellectuals to this area.

Bazaar Hakiman directly leads you to Kucha Fakir Khana, situated on the left (east), where the famous Fakir Khana Museum, dating from the Sikh period, is located. It is a private museum and displays the relics of the past representing, among others, the association of the Fakir family with Sikh rulers of the Punjab. The Fakir family acted as hakim (physician), wazir (minister) and trusted aides and Fakir Syed Azeezuddin along with his brother Fakir Syed Nooruddin (see above) are often mentioned in despatches and chronicles of the British visitors to the court of Maharaja Ranjit Singh. The ancestral home (haveli) of the Fakir family, being looked after by Fakir Syed Saifuddin, has been extensively repaired in recent years, and although in the process it has lost some of its authenticity, the collection is remarkable for its variety and historical value.

As you walk further down in southerly direction on the right (west) you will notice the presence of a mazar indicated by attached domes and a green painted panel. This is the shrine of Pir Bhola It is not his grave, instead the festive green cupolas mark the sitting place of the pir and the focus of much reverence of the devotees.

Bhati Gate

Going past Pir Bhola's shrine you are now traversing the Bhati Gate Bazaar, which directly leads you to the famous Bhati Gate. A few metres down the road, on the same side as the shrine is Unchi Masjid Lal—the appellation lal (red) signifying the colour with which it is profusely decorated and painted. The mosque has been renovated and rebuilt, losing its original features.

The original mosque is popularly believed to have been constructed by Akbar, though it is more likely to have been built during Aurangzeb Alamgir's period as inferred from epigraphical evidence. The mosque is located on high ground—the raison d'etre of its name (Unchi = high)—and is approached from the east by climbing 12 steps or almost 7 feet. To the west of the mosque is Mohallah Cho-Malah where once thekhatibof Unchi Masjid, Maul vi Imamuddin resided.

Going past the crossing of Tavela Muhammaddin, on the left (east) you will find Nayan di Gall (Barbers' Street), famous because Shaikh Gulab Din, the translator from English of laws of evidence, once lived here.

Proceeding south on Bhati Gate Bazaar, a narrow turning right (west) between Mohallah Jalotian and Mohallah Islam Khan, leads to the mazar of Pir Jhanday Shah, after whom Chowk Jhanda is named (for location refer Mori Gate/Lohari Gate Guzargah). This well decorated shrine, hemmed in by other buildings, has been reconstructed and carries the inscription Baba Pir Jhanday.

Retracing your steps to proceed south on Bhati Gate Bazaar, you will find on your right (west) an important structure—the house in which the celebrated national poet Allama Muhammad Iqbal resided for some time. It is an old house, which carries a small marble plaque at high level informing of the association of the house with Iqbal.

Bhati Gate Bazaar leads you to one of the most celebrated gates of Lahore. Bhati Darwaza ('Buttee' Darwaza) itself is named after the ancient Rajput tribe the 'Bhattis', who settled in the area due to the efforts of Malik Ayaz, the governor appointed by Mahmud Ghaznavi. The gate, with its high-arched portal and extended flanks, was rebuilt by the British during late 19th century. The gateway is used by the Zul-Jinnah procession during Muharram to reach Karbala Camay Shah.

Bhati Gate Chowk outside the gateway on Circular Road is an important intersection with many thoroughfares converging at the junction—its significance augmented by the proximity of the shrine of the popular saint Data Ganj Bakhsh.

At one time the entertainment hub of Lahore—including cinema, touring circuses and theatre companies and other activities—today too, the chowk (crossing) is alive until late hours, with snacks and a variety of soft drinks being offered from the many food outlets and stalls that abound in the area. This is also an important transport hub, a bus depot where buses and wagons for various routes of Lahore and the countryside will be found, along with a tonga stand from where 1 ocal horse-carriages can be hired—an enjoyable vehicle if you wish to travel at a leisurely pace through the town.

Taksalee & Bhati Gates Guzargah

Mori & Lohari Gates Guzargah

Shahalmi Gate 1 & 2 Guzargah

Mochi & Akbari Gates Guzargah

Dehli & Yakki Gates Guzargah

Sheranwala Gate Guzargah

Kashmiri & Masti Gates Guzargah

Roshni Gate Guzargah