Tour Route 1

Saddar & Cantonment

This route comprises areas known as Saddar Bazaar Quarter and Cantonment (where the British army was originally quartered), selected because of their close proximity and inter-related history.

Out of all the Quarters of the city with the exception of the 'Old Town', the Saddar Bazaar is the oldest and the most interesting. As the Kumpany Bahadur occupied, annexed or conquered various parts of the subcontinent, it established cantonments for its troops, "but long before Cantonments were known, there were Saddar Bazaars throughout India, meaning to say the chief and permanent markets." Thus, Saddar Bazaars or Regimental Bazaars, as they were initially known, were the first major urban elements introduced by the British in the towns that they occupied. Baillie, a nineteenth century historian, defines the bazaar as "a quarter containing a number of stores and shops, the property of distinct owners, but it is not unusual to find a market situated in its midst."

The history of Karachi's Saddar Bazaar dates back to the partial occupation of Karachi in 1839. Henry Preedy, the Bazaar Master (Cantonment Magistrate) and head of the Commissariat Department, after whom one of the major streets of Saddar Bazaar Quarter is named, was instrumental in persuading the local traders to set up their shops in the Camp (or Cantonment), as the Bazaar was then known. Preedy was keen to have pucca shops replace the temporary tent accommodations initially erected by the followers and sutlers who had followed the British army to provide it with provisions. However, fearing the wrath of the Talpur rulers, local merchants were not willing to establish their outlets in the British controlled Cantonment, until Seth Naomul, who had provided many services to the British during the First Afghan War, constructed the first four shops in the Bazaar in 1841. It was at this date that some of the pucca shops were constructed here. The fortunes of the Saddar Bazaar were closely interlinked with the fortunes of the city. As the importance of Karachi grew, so did the significance of Saddar. Baillie reported in 1889 that the ladies of the 'Military Branch' as well as their sisters of the 'Civil Branch' of society in 'Kurrachee' resort to " the Sudder, where the latest things from home, whether fashions in dress, Easter eggs or Christmas cards are exposed to view, and where the newest sauces, the most novel condiments, and the best of wines are also to be found." By 1913 "Sudder Bazaar [had] become a mart of universal providers, tailors, milliners, bootmakers, carriage builders, chemists, photographers and book-sellers." Without doubt at the time Zaibunnisa Street (Elphinstone Street) was the queen of Karachi's streets, as it continues to this day.

Cantonment

After the arrival of the British, there were initially only two distinct areas: the indigenous town and the Camp (later Cantonment). By 1858, a large area for civilian use had been ear marked and Collector of Karachi, A.F. Bellasis, divided the "town and suburbs of Kurrachee into quarters," which included the Cantonment, but maintained its distinct boundaries. In 1899 an independent Cantonment Committee was constituted which controlled the area designated as Karachi Cantonment. As the new (20th) century progressed other cantonments were also declared: Manora Island, Drigh Cantonment, Mauripur Cantonment etc.

After annexation in 1843, a major part of Karachi Cantonment had been laid out in a more or less grid-iron fashion, with roads either at right angles or parallel to Bunder Road. At the time, Cantonment comprised of the Commissariat Department, Officers' Bungalows and Napier Barracks.

The Native Infantry Lines, located towards the eastern end, overlooked the vast General Playground, which defined the eastern boundary of the city. Between the northern and southern ends of the original Karachi Cantonment lay the regimental bazaar, or Saddar Bazaar, described above, which in fact had been part of the Camp or Cantonment until 1896. It is in the Cantonment that the Staff Lines with residences for senior officers were located in lots measuring over 12,000 square yards each. The Roman Catholic Church, Convent and Christian cemetery were and continue to be part of Karachi Cantonment.

Tour Route 1

This route takes you into the shopping heart of Karachi—the Saddar Bazaar. Section 2 of Chapter 5 provides you with information on what you can buy here. The Saddar, as the area is affectionately known, also has a large number of Victorian buildings. Their vintage eclectic facades are normally not visible unless you make the effort to look above the chaotic display of signage on shop windows. Buildings # 3 & 4 of this , although located in Karachi Cantonment, have been included under Saddar Bazaar buildings due to their proximity. Buildings # 7 &'8 of Karachi Cantonment are also easily accessible from Saddar Bazaar; however, the remaining Cantonment Buildings # 9, 10 & 11 are located at some distance from Saddar.

Turning right from the busy shopping area of Abdullah Haroon Road (Victoria Road) on Preedy Street, named after the first Bazaar Master of Karachi as mentioned earlier, takes you into the heart of Saddar. If you take a turn on Zaibunnisa Street (Elphinstone Street) and walk in the southerly direction you will notice many British period buildings, termed Imperial-vernacular in view of the innovative mix of Colonial and local features, especially in the shopping area known as Bohri Bazaar. On Preedy Street itself, which at one time boasted several remarkable buildings, only a few historical facades are now extant.

Saddar Bazaar Quarter

Eduiji Dinshaw Dispensary

As you walk east on Preedy Street, although comparatively small, the classical Eduiji Dinshaw Dispensary dominates the axis of Raja Ghazanfar Ali Road (Somerset Street). Apart from its significance as the first major building built in Italianate style in Karachi, its handsome proportions, well considered massing and rigorous detailing make it a singularly attractive building. The central section of the building, consisting of two storey, projects slightly from the single storey portion.

The building's arcaded facade has stone balusters and semi-circular pilasters defining the springing of Roman arches, and terminates in the centrally positioned clock tower. The tower itself is capped by a sloping roof carrying a metallic covering, and prominently displays 1882 as its date of construction. The Dispensary marks the first architectural attempt of James Strachan, the Municipality engineer, who later built several notable buildings of Karachi.

For those interested in the social history of the city, this dispensary represents the rise of Parsi community, since it was built through the contributions of a Parsi gentleman, the well-known philanthropist Eduiji Dinshaw. As a military contractor during the Second Anglo-Afghan War, he rose from poverty to becoming the largest land-owner in Karachi—reportedly owning half of the city by 1893. hi view of the contributions of the Parsis to Karachi's development, it is but fitting that the tour should begin with one of their important landmarks.

Empress Market

Facing Preedy Street, and a few yards to the east of Eduiji Dinshaw Dispensary, the tower of Empress Market carries such imposing presence that it cannot be missed—in spite of traffic congestion in the area.

This neo-Gothic, Victorian Gothic or Indo-Gothic building, as the style is variously described, is one of the city's best-known landmarks. At the time of its construction, the Market was one of seven markets of Karachi and its 46 feet wide galleries provided accommodation to 280 shops and stall keepers. Today, although the Market building has been largely cleared of small shops, the area surrounding the Market is full of hundreds of cabins selling a variety of merchandise, and visited by people from all walks of life.

By far the most well-known design of James Strachan, the Market is a symmetrical building arranged around a courtyard. While the use of the alien Gothic form was understandable, the presence of an atrium was highly unusual for the time. The building is not a pretentious building except for the tall central tower that rises to a height of 140 feet. The design utilizes delicately carved column capitals as well as carved stone brackets which support the balcony projections. Together with the exquisite leopard heads at the top four comers of the tower, the carved elements demonstrate the skill of the local craftsmen. The building's imposing clock tower carries a large chiming clock, with skeleton iron dials placed on all four sides. Contemporary accounts relate the lavish praise of Commissioner Pritchard, who pointed out in his opening address that Empress Market was surpassed only by 'Crawford Markets' of Bombay in the whole Presidency.

For those interested in Karachi's role in the nationalist movement, the market is located on the site where native sepoys were strapped to the mouth of cannons and blown to pieces as punishment for their involvement in the First War of Independence in 1857.

There is little disagreement that the market needs to be restored to its former condition. If Pakistan Heritage Foundation's Empress Market Gardens Project is accepted by the Government, the area will become a pedestrian's haven: vehicle-free streets, a large landscaped square and shops laid out around three storey sunken open to sky atriums at the rear of the historic Empress Market, allowing the Market to again redeem its position as the focal point of Saddar.

Karachi Grammar School

Going northwards, past the Empress Market, on the road known as Dr. Daudpota Road (Frere Street) you will notice a spacious playing field dominated by an austere facade. This is the famous Karachi Grammar School, which continues to impart high quality education to the children of affluent classes.

Technically in Karachi Cantonment, it is usually considered part of Saddar. Indo-European school, as it was earlier known, was originally founded in 1854 by the famous Commissioner-in-Sinde, Bartle Frere, for the 'children of European Protestants'. Also known as English School House, it w,as the venue of a Darbar on November 1, 1858, when celebrations commemorating the assumption of Queen Victoria as Queen of the British Territories of India were held.

The present building, which is now occupied by the senior school, (the junior school having moved to Clifton), was designed by Thomas F. Dowden of the Royal Engineers and was built in 1874-75. The government contributed Rs. 21,500 towards the total cost of Rs. 40,000, the remaining having been paid by The Diocesan Board of Education. Employing hammer dressed Gizri stone, the building is comparatively simple in character and not as impressive as St. Joseph's Convent.

More than any other architectural element, it is the central arch with its highly polished brass bell, which symbolizes the school. Generations of students have immortalized this stone arch by using its photograph on the cover of their publications, and their imprint on school's history by engraving their names on the arch.

Goa-Portuguese Hall

Across the road from Karachi Grammar School, situated at the junction of Dr. Daudpota (Frere Street) and Depot Roads is one of the most impressive buildings of the city.

Located on Karachi Cantonment land, but considered part of Saddar, this is the finest building designed by Moses Somake, the first known architect of Karachi. There is no doubt that Goa-Portuguese Hall, which was built in 1905, marked the turning point in the career of Somake, and led to important architectural commissions such as North Western Hotel in 1908 (now demolished) and Edward House built in 1910 (see Rahguzar 3 in this chapter).

Known also as Goan Gymkhana, the building was built for the Goan community which had grown considerably since Napier annexed Sindh. In 1869, a reading room and library had been set up which led to the formation of the Goa-Portuguese Association in 1886. The Hall was built during the tenure of the Association's President Cincinnatus Fabian D'Abreo (1901-1909), who is also remembered for initiating work on a residential colony for his community known as Cincinnatus Town (now called Garden East).

Somake's handling of the building volumes reflects the seriousness with which he designed this impressive structure, which was to serve as the focal point for the activities of the Goan community. In keeping with the prevalent architectural mode. Renaissance was the style chosen by Somake, who could clothe his buildings in any desired style as easily as James Strachan (Compare Strachan's Indo-Italianate Eduiji Dinshaw Dispensary with his neo-Gothic Empress Market seen earlier on this route).

The massing of the building is patterned after the late seventeenth and early eighteenth century English Renaissance country houses. It employs a pedimented centre and hipped roofs and dormers. The window openings are semicircular while the dormer windows are circular, and the end pilasters quite elaborate.

The choice of European Classical is not surprising from the point of view of the native Goanese community; their aspirations were similar to those of the Parsi magnate Eduiji Dinshaw, family members of the prominent Hindu figure Dayaram Jethmal (see D.J. Sindh College on Rahguzar 3 in this chapter) and Muslim philanthropist Khalikdina (see Khalikdina Hall on Rahguzar 5 in this chapter) in identifying with the taste of British rulers.

The Hall was constructed at a cost of Rs. 48,000 raised through the Association's own sources. It was opened by R.P. Barrow, Collector of Karachi, and considered a notable addition to the town as well as a "testimony to the wealth and enterprise of the community that raised it". The finishes of the building are somewhat lavish, with Belgian tiles used on the ground floor and teak flooring in the first floor hall.

Those interested in experiencing a colonial ambiance will find its interiors stimulating. It is worth visiting the building for its handsome proportions, generous spaces and lofty ceilings. The building is maintained by Goa-Portuguese Association as a club for its members.

Three Religious Buildings

If you turn south from Empress Market, you will be able to visit three religious buildings belonging to three different communities of Karachi, demonstrative of the amity and goodwill with which people of different faiths were able to co-exist. Within a couple of blocks of each other are located a Zoroastrian agyari, a Muslim mosque and an imposing Christian cathedral.

Parsi Dar-e-Meher or Agyari (Fire Temple)

Among the oldest communities of Karachi, the Parsis established their Tower of Silence (burial ground) in 1847 and Atash Kadeh (Fire Temple) a year later. The community maintains one of its religious buildings in this Quarter. Overlooking Dr. Daudpota Road (Frere Street), set back from the road, is the Parsi-dar-e-Meher, kept in an immaculate condition.

You can enjoy its eclectic facade, but will not be allowed to enter because, the Agyari or Fire Temple is open for admission only to the Parsi community. Zoroastrians, or the followers of Zoroaster, as Parsis are also called, have left many landmarks and contributed significantly to the development of the city of Karachi. Various Parsi rituals in the Agyari are presided over by the priest (dasturji) dressed in a white flowing jamno (over-shirt) and praying over the fire crucible.

Jama Masjid Qasaban

The earliest extant mosque in Saddar dates back to 1899 and is known as Jama Masjid Qasaban (lit. the Mosque of Butchers). You will find it within walking distance from the Parsi agyari, across Sharah-e-Iraq (Clarke Street), on Talpur Road (Napier Street). The congested site demanded that the Jama Mosque adopt the unusual multi-level design. The facade treatment employs the simple arcading seen in other buildings since European Classical decorative features were indiginised and adopted for all building types. And, even though the building is a mosque, there was no hesitation in employing moulded Italian Renaissance arches to embellish the facade with projecting string courses defining the floors and roof. The capitals and the bases of pilasters, on the other hand, incorporate local motifs, contributing to the hybrid character of the building. At street level, the only indication of the building being a mosque is evident from a cupola placed on the projecting element defining a mimbar niche.

Karachi Cantonment

St. Patrick's Cathedral and Monument

The axis of Shara-e-Iraq (Clarke Street) is dominated by a beautifully sculpted memorial with a tall tower, behind which the twin spires of the impressive St. Patrick's Cathedral rise. Enormous in size, this is the last of the great churches of Karachi. As you enter the compound, and go round the monument you find that the grand monument of white marble was constructed in 1931 to perpetuate the memory of the Jesuit Mission in Sindh.

The Cathedral itself dates from 1881, and superseded a chapel, the first Roman Catholic church established in Sindh by the British, which had been built during the days of Charles Napier. Although, as Richard Burton, the anthropologist and historian, had noted, the chapel had in fact been built "palpably for the effect;" however, the need for; ^ much larger and more impressive church had become essential in view of the growing numbers of Christians congregating to Karachi in the 1870s.

With the extension of the railway network, the community's numbers had grown considerably, since they were not only well versed in English but also proficient in mastering the intricacies of the new technology.

The Cathedral was designed by three members of the Society of Jesus, the pastors Father Wagner, Brother Kluver and Brother lau. Constructed of Gizri stone, St. Patrick's became the largest church in Karachi. With a nave of 170 feet by 75 feet, it accommodates 1,500 worshippers at one time.

Do not be misled by a somewhat utilitarian external facade which carries minimum ornamentation, for it is the interior which presents a dramatic view. Its impressive vaulting, internal volume embellished with wonderfully executed stained glass windows, and life size statues are the most sumptuous of its architectural ensemble.

St. Joseph's Convent School

As you face the cathedral, on the right are the buildings of St. Joseph's Convent School. At one time part of the Cathedral com- pound, today the school premises are separated by a wall.

This school is among the most important institutions of the city for girls, where generations of students have been coached by groups of dedicated nuns. Originally known as Roman Catholic Convent, the ground floor of the building was built in 1862.

Architecturally, it was the forerunner of a number of Ttalianate' style buildings of Karachi. The more impressive upper floors were constructed almost a decade later, when a central tower was also added. Later additions to the Convent were carried out in matching style, in harmony with the existing ground floor.

The Convent's upper floors are detailed meticulously and the gable roofs proudly display the cross. If you enter the building, you will find it extraordinarily cool, since the Italian Renaissance arcading of its verandahs shades the interior, directing the prevailing breeze inside.

Liaquat Barracks (Napier Barracks)

To view the beginnings of British army architecture you will need to travel on Shara-e-Faisal (Drigh Road) in the direction of the airport, at some distance from Saddar.

As the road curves, two handsome buildings unfold themselves. On the right side of the road is the office of Commander, Karachi (or Comkar, as he is known), the highest serving naval officer in Karachi, and on the left, that of the Corps Commander, the highest ranking army officer.

It is to the credit of the two services, that instead of demolishing and rebuilding they have opted to restore these buildings and use them for their administrative purposes, thus prolonging the life of these important structures.

It is fitting that these buildings are occupied and maintained by the Armed Forces of Pakistan, since the former were associated with Charles Napier, an army general. Now referred to as Liaquat Barracks, the office of Comkar has an added distinction: its use as the headquarters of Pakistan Navy prior to its shifting to Islamabad.

Military reports of the period of the 1860s, referred to in The Dual City: Karachi During the Raj (published by Heritage Foundation & Oxford University Press), show that originally there were ten blocks which had been constructed to provide accommodation for the European Infantry during the days of Charles Napier, because of which they were named Napier Barracks. In 1869, however, extra accommodation was needed, and in the next three years, extra floors were added to five of the original ten blocks.

The uniformity of army buildings and their placement in a regimental fashion was a source of amusement and comment by contemporary writers. The famous 19th century traveller Richard Burton, mentioned earlier, described the usual barrack buildings as "oblong, single storied buildings, dressed with mathematical precision to the front and flanked by equally precise roads."

However, where most barracks were undoubtedly monotonous, Napier Barracks turned out to be quite impressive. The rhythmic use of repetitive Roman arch arcading in front and rear verandahs punctuated by the end gables lend the buildings a dignified character. The use of buff coloured local Gizri stone and simple arched openings defined with simple mouldings are in character with the military establishment they were meant to represent.

Although it is difficult to get permission to enter the grounds, you might be allowed to view the buildings from the entrance gate. The spacious compound, old trees, lofty ceilings and seemingly un ending length of verandahs floored with wooden planks, all add to the colonial ambiance of these historic structures.

Army Station Commander's Office

Proceeding east on Shara-e-Faisal, on the left side of the road, past the traffic signal, will be found Army Station Commander's office. It is a modest single storey barrack, evidence of the real beginnings of army architecture in Karachi. The barrack is the earliest extant army building in the city, dating from 1856.

The simple barrack construction shows the economical construction methodology that was used at the time. The Kumpany Bahadur, as East India Company was known, seemed to be in a constant state of penury and was reluctant tobear what it considered unnecessary construction costs. Thus, the first occupiers of Sindh had to be content with inexpensive buildings using recycled wood.

General William Napier, the brother of 'Conqueror of Sind' Charles Napier, was indignant regarding the unsuitability of material sent from Bombay for construction of barracks: "At Kurrachee the barracks, projected on a bad model when the town was occupied during the Affghan invasion, had been with the usual official inattention to soldier's well being, built with wood sent from Bombay, but previously used in other edificies unfitted for this purpose."

It is not known whether the Army Station Commander's office was also built with recycled wood, but it is clear that this building represents the prototype of simple barrack structures.

The building is set in a large compound and mostly hidden by trees. The classical character of the simple wooden structure is pleasing to the eye. The rooms, with their lofty ceilings and roof level ventilators, are shaded by deep veranda on the west, and are unbelievably cool.

If you can get permission to enter, you will enjoy the immaculately maintained barrack and grounds as a result of the proverbial efficiency of Pakistan Army.

Gora Qabristan (Christian Cemetery)

The cemetery is worth a visit by those interested in the study of tombstones. Beyond Army Station Commander's office, travelling further on Shara-e-Faisal (Drigh Road) in the direction of the airport, you will find the Christian Cemetery or Gora Qabristan—(literally the white man's graveyard)—located opposite one of the most important and striking contemporary office buildings of Karachi, known as Finance and Trade Centre. The welcoming concourse of this building is worth a visit; the use of fountains and green vegetation in its internal open-to-sky atriums, along with cool natural breeze, provide a haven for visitors and workers alike.

The Cemetery, which was established in 1854, had sufficiently developed by the 1920s to be labelled an "oasis of greenness and shade in the midst of a stony plain." Entering the arched gateway, although the grounds are no longer as green as before, if you take a leisurely walk you will find many tombs carrying the history of those who laid their lives in an alien land in the service of their country.

Original Christian cemeteries in Karachi included one located between M.A. Jinnah Road (Bunder Road) and Preedy Tank, where a Captain Hand, "barbarously murdered by a gang of Sindhians" in 1839, was buried. After the 'conquest', Napier's nephew John Moore and others who died due to cholera in 1846 were buried in another cemetery later known as the 'Old Burial Ground', which was located in close proximity to the Roman Catholic Convent.

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