Tour Route 4

This Rahguzar cuts through three major Quarters of the city: Preedy, Runchore Lines and Wadhumal Odharam Gail). The common thread that runs through these Quarters is M.A. Jinnah Road (Bunder Road), a road which provides access to the three Quarters and was laid out after the annexation of Sindh by the British to be 'as straight as an arrow'.

Preedy Quarter. Mainly consisting of shops and commercial activity, this Quarter is named after the first 'Bazaar Master' of Karachi, who unfurled the British flag on the local town hall (chauri) in 1843. In the northern part of the Quarter, across M.A. Jinnah Road (Bunder Road), during the early days of the occupation, large areas were dedicated to engineering yards, and housed various bungalows for officials who had flocked to the city to execute engineering works related to the construction of railways.

Located at the junction of M.A. Jinnah Road and Jamila Street (Barnes Road) was the Travelers' Bungalow, much derided by Richard Burton, referred to earlier, on his visit to Karachi in 1877 as "a refuge for the wholly destitute of friends."

During the 1920s, the Travelers' Bungalow was replaced with the new buildings of YWCA and Mama Parsi School. At this time many other buildings were also constructed in the area.

Runchore Lines Quarter. This Quarter was named after a large tank, Runchore Talao, in the area.

The tank has long been filled up and is now known as Nishtar Park (Patel Park), a venue used extensively for large gatherings (jalsas) during political campaigns.

As this area was close to the original native town, the British built various buildings for the use of the local community: N.J.V. High School, a Library and Government Book Depot were all located at the junction of M.A. Jinnah Road (Bunder Road) and Baba-e-Urdu Road (Mission Road). These buildings were replaced by Khalikdina Hall in 1905 and Dow Medical College during the late 1940s.

Wadhumal Odharam (W.O.) Quarter. Originally known as Jail Quarter, it also borders on M.A. Jinnah Road (Bunder Road), and is located across Baba-i-Urdu Road (Mission Road) from Runchore Lines Quarter. Close to the original native 'Old Town', Wadhumal Odharam Quarter is among the earliest Quarters that were established after annexation.

It's development came about as a result of the activities of the missionaries as it was chosen for sitting the Church Mission Society Church and a school for local children.

The first British jail of the city, which occupied a large area, was established here, which gave the Quarter its name. When in 1906, the jail was shifted to another location, its large lot was given over to several important buildings: Karachi Municipal Corporation office. Small Cause Court and the City Court, which are included in this Rahguzar.

Rahguzar 4 takes you through some of the most congested parts of Karachi. Where some buildings may be within walking distance, many are at some distance from each other. You will have to be prepared to brave Karachi's unruly traffic, and noisy buses, but it would be worth the trouble as you will be able to see a selection of some remarkable buildings of Karachi.

Preedy Quarter

St. Andrew's Church (Scotch Church)

Largely hidden from view, one of the most interesting churches of Karachi is located in a large compound between Abdullah Haroon Road (Victoria Road) and Sir Agha Khan III Road (Garden Road).

St. Andrews Church, also known as Scotch Church, was completed in 1868 at a cost of Rs. 56,300, and was designed by T.G. Newnham, Chief Resident Engineer of the 'Scinde Railways', who was immortalized when one of the important streets of Karachi was named after him. Newnham Road, now re-named Fakhr Matri Road, is the street where Quaid-e-Azam Jinnah's birthplace, Wazir Mansion, is situated.

The design of the church, using buttresses and a tall spire, draws upon Romanesque and Venetian Gothic styles for the treatment of its openings. With a seating capacity of 400, its 100 feet long nave rises to a height of 56 feet to the ridge of the roof and is separated from the aisles by arcades, above which are a row of clerestory windows. An unusual octagonal porch on the south corner forms the entrance to the church. Adjacent to this stand the tower and steeple, rising to a height of 135 feet. At the time the church was built, its tower was the second tallest in Karachi, the tower of the Trinity Church in Civil Lines Quarter having been the tallest.

However, in 1904, when the top two storey of the Trinity Church tower were taken down, St. Andrew's became the tallest church tower in Karachi.

The most distinctive feature of the Church is its finely carved rose-window, 18 feet in diameter, placed at the south end. Another interesting element is its five-light window with a head of geometrical tracery that adorns the opposite end.

Bai Virbaiji Soparivala Parsi (B.V.S.) School

Going towards the northern end of Abdullah Haroon Road (Victoria Road) through congested market area is situated one of the earliest educational institutions of Karachi.

A Parsi Balakshala, the forerunner of Bai Virbaiji Soparivala Parsi School, was opened as a Gujarati vernacular school, with the help of donations and subscriptions from the 'Zoroastrian residents of Gujarat' on May 23,1859. The leading spirit behind this venture was Seth Nanbhai Framji Spencer, who also acted as the institution's secretary until 1862, when he had to return to Bombay. After Spencer's departure, Shapurji Hurmusji Soparivala took over as secretary in 1870. He made a generous contribution of Rs 10,000 for a building to house the Karachi Parsi Balakshala in the name of his wife Bai Virbaiji.

The school then shifted to the 'upper storey bungalow of Seth Shapurji' and achieved the status of an 'Anglo-Vernacular' institution in 1875 when an English teaching section "was introduced.

In 1904 Moses Somake, who had become a well-known architect of Karachi, was entrusted with the design of the building and the consecration ceremony was performed on March 24,1906, when the whole Parsi community was invited to a jashan (celebrations) ceremony.

In 1922, the Parsi Balakshala was re-christened as Bai Virbaiji Soparivala Parsi High School.

Architecturally the building is simple but massive in character. Compared to some of Somake's other buildings such as Goa-Portuguese Hall (see Rahguzar 1 in this chapter), the school is less modulated, and incorporates, albeit sparingly, a free use of orders. The two-storey building employs arcading with semicircular openings on the ground floor and segmental ones on the first floor. Decorative features are confined to the tall two-storey high pilasters with Corinthian capitals and high pedestals, which flank the arched doorways.

A third storey was added in 1923, and although Gizri stone was also used in the extension, the difference in style is quite apparent. A triangular pediment to provide accent to the central portion was added at this time. Although its location has become congested over the years, this fine institution continues to be well maintained.

Mama Parsi Girls High School

Turning left on M.A. Jinnah Road (Bunder Road), at the axis of Preedy street is located another remarkable institution built by Parsi philanthropists—the Mama Parsi school.

The school had grown out of the original Balakshala, referred to earlier, when, due to the increasing numbers of female enrolment, in 1903 a separate school for girls was considered necessary. It was due to the efforts ofJamshed Nusserwanjee, remembered as 'Father of Modern Karachi' because of his untiring efforts for city's development as chairman and mayor of Karachi Municipality, that Rs. 510,000 were collected in 1920 for a new building.

The largest donor was Khan Bahadur Ardeshir H. Mama who contributed more than 50% of the amount needed for the building. The present school building, called Mama Mansion at the time, was completed in January 1925.

The sedate building carries little ornamentation, and although the projecting porch does have Classical columns, the rest of the facade is uncompromising in its severity and treatment of fenestration with large openings. Originally consisting of two storeys, the building was designed by Anderson and Assarpota, who later designed the impressive Sindh Assembly building. The School has an important presence on M.A. Jinnah Road (Bunder Road) and continues to provide quality education to young girls of the city.

Runchore Lines Quarter

N.J.V. High School

Across Jamila Street (Barnes Street) in the direction of Merewether Tower, a few yards from Mama Parsi School and facing M.A. Jinnah Road (Bunder Road) is the building of N.J.V. or Narayan Jagamath High School, among the oldest schools of the city. This building marks the boundary of Runchore Lines Quarter.

The school itself was established in 1855 and was the first Municipality school for natives in Sindh built with assistance from the Government. The present building, however, was constructed just before Independence and was greatly influenced by the newly constructed, simple and dignified Government House which had been designed by Robert Tor Russell. With deep and airy verandahs, the building is eminently suited for Karachi's hot-humid climate.

After Independence since Karachi was declared the capital of the new nation of Pakistan, the Sindh Assembly was taken over by the Legislative Assembly of Pakistan and the school building served as Sindh Assembly. Presently, it is used as a school.

Ghulam Hoosain Khalikdina Hall & Library

At some considerable distance from N.J.V. High School, facing M.A. Jinnah Road (Bunder Road), you will notice a neo-classical portico with a large pediment supported by tall circular columns with Ionic capitals. This building, consisting primarily of a large hall, is considered among the most significant historical buildings of Karachi because of its role in the struggle for freedom from the British rule.

Those familiar with the history of Independence Movement would be aware that during the Khilafat Conference, held July 8-10, 1921, in Karachi, resolutions were passed declaring it unlawful for Muslims to serve in the [British] army or to help or acquiesce in their recruitment.

The Khilafat leaders further threatened the government with civil disobedience in the event of a conflict between the British and Turkish National Governments. The fiery speeches made during the Conference by the Jauhar brothers, Maulana Shaukat Ali and Mohammad Ali, were not viewed favorably by the rulers, who arrested them on the charge of incitement against the British government. And, Khalikdina Hall is where the trial of these important Khilafat leaders was held.

The trial, in which Maulana Mohammad Ali defended himself, became known as the 'Trial of Sedition' and was of such importance that the Hall achieved fame throughout the subcontinent.

Khalikdina Hall was constructed in 1906 for recreational and literary pursuits of the native population, and is the first building built by a Muslim philanthropists for this purpose. Ghulam Hussein Khalikdina made a generous donation of Rs. 18,000, which made the construction of this Hall possible.

Influenced by the architectural trends of the time to achieve instant grandeur, the building employs features associated with Palladian architecture.

In 1997, the roof of the main hall collapsed, due to which its reconstruction was taken in hand. The building has been restored and refurbished and is used by Karachi Metropolitan Corporation for arranging cultural activities.

Diwan Dayaram Chellaram Mirchandani Trough

Turning right on Baba-e-Urdu (Mission Road), in front of Dow Medical College you find one of the few remaining water troughs of Karachi, that once dotted the city, providing drinking water for man and beast alike.

This trough, constructed with chiseled Gizri stone and donated to the city by Diwan Dayaram in 1927, is particularly handsome. It is located in close proximity of Dow Medical College and Civil Hospital, an area which at one time, as mentioned earlier, was occupied by the modest buildings of N.J.V. High School, Government Book Depot and a library for the use of native population.

However, a few years before Independence, N.J.V. School was shifted and part of the area was given over to Dow Medical College. During the early 1990s this Trough was restored through voluntary efforts of students of Dow Medical College.

Civil Hospital

Moving' northward on Baba-e-Urdu Road, and a few yards beyond the Diwan trough, the large compound of one of the major city hospitals is situated. This is the Civil Hospital of Karachi, which fortunately still retains some valuable historic buildings.

The first building that you notice is the Main Building of the Hospital, a large two storey structure with impressive Roman arches providing arcading to the ground floor verandah. The verandah of the upper floor is articulated with smaller openings. The building was constructed in 1918 and employs dressed Gizri stone for its wall masonry. Although it has undergone many changes, the original structure is still identifiable.

Past the main hospital block, facing the main road are two most attractive vintage buildings known as Diamond Jubilee Block and Victoria Block. These two historic structures, which are remarkable for their elegant facades were constructed as hostels for nurses. The foundation stone was laid by Viceroy Curzon in 1900, captured in a rare photograph published in The Dual City: Karachi During the Raj.

A three storey structure. Diamond Jubilee Block is an unusual building, since its openings employ both neo-Classical and neo Gothic openings. The verandah facade faces the main road; the ground floor consists of Roman arches, while upper floors display smaller repetitive lancet arches. Local carving skills are well-utilized in this building with a display of finely carved capitals and moldings. An interesting feature of the facade is the still extant wooden chajjas, which project out at upper floor openings to provide shade from the afternoon sun. Situated in close proximity of the Diamond Jubilee Block, Victoria Block uses a similar architectural vocabulary and is equally valuable.

Unfortunately, the buildings have been neglected for some time; however, if attempts by Dr. Shaista Effendi are successful, it is hoped that they will be adapted for reuse as Burns and Plastic Surgery Centre, based on proposals prepared by Heritage Foundation.

Lady Dufferin Hospital

A block away from the Civil Hospital compound, although not visible from the congested Chand Bibi Street (Princess Street), is situated another well-known hospital compound. You will have to enter Lady Dufferin Hospital gates to be able to view the impressive historic building known as Eduiji Dinshaw Wing.

It is the first especially-designed hospital of the city, and one of the two important buildings added to the skyline of Karachi during the last decade of nineteenth century, the other being Cantonment Railway Station (see Rahguzar 2 in this chapter). The hospital was thought to be of sufficient importance for 'Lady Elgin, the wife of the Honorable Viceroy Lord Elgin' to lay its foundation stone on November 12,1894. Completed in 1898 at a cost of Rs. 105,000, the building is clothed in a later Renaissance style, with a combination of alternating triangular and segmental pediment square headed openings, while the central portion is defined by a triangular gable. The skill of the craftsmen has been well utilized in moldings and carved elements.

The hospital is managed with the help of contributions of philanthropists, a beginning for which was made by Karachi land owner Eduiji Dinshaw through a contribution of Rs. 5,000.

As you enter the building, you will find a marble bust of Lady Dufferin, wife of another viceroy, well-known for her contribution to native women's issues, whose name the hospital carries.

Christ Church

At some distance from Lady Dufferin Hospital, at the junction of Baba-e-Urdu Road (Mission Road) and Nishtar Road (Lawrence Road) will be found a comparatively modest church building.

The original structure of the church carries considerable historic significance; it dates back to 1856 and was built in the compound of Henry Preedy's original Collector's Kutchery, acquired by Church Mission Society in 1853. The church was located not far from the original native town and played an important part in familiarizing the native community with Christianity. The architectural vocabulary of the building relies on lancet arched openings, buttresses and a rose window.

Christian Mission Society (C.M.S.) School

Those interested in the early period of the Raj will find this school compound of great interest which is located across Nishtar Road (Lawrence Road) from Christ Church.

It was established by the Church Mission Society and was aimed at providing education to the children of the local inhabitants of the city, which accounts for its proximity to the 'Old Town'. Its further importance lies in its association with Quaid-e-Azam Mohammed Ali Jinnah who attended this school.

Historic buildings of the school comprise four separate single storey blocks which are placed around three sides of a large playground. As you step into the compound, you will see the first block, parallel to the main road, which is the oldest structure and likely to have been constructed during the 1850s. We know that Henry Preedy, the first Bazaar Master o f Karachi, had constructed a school in the compound in 1852 and this could be the one.

You will find the building in a damaged condition, but this modest structure shows the architectural beginnings of the British Raj in the city, along with offices of Army Station Commander and Commissioner, Karachi. Timber rafters, trusses and purlins and covering of khapchi (split bamboo) roof shows the materials used during those early days.

You will find the second building on the right side of the playground. Its verandah, which is no longer extant faced West and opened into the playground. Unfortunately this building has lost many of its original features while it was reconstructed.

The third building across the playground is known as Arthur Day Block. It was built in 1902-1916 and houses the Principal's office and Staff room etc. Although, this block has lost the original roof covering, the original timber roof structure—gable roof, rafters and planks—are still extant.

The most interesting of the four structures is in line with the first block. This fourth block was built in 1903 for congregational and recreational purposes and consists of a large hall. It is the best preserved building in the compound. Its enormous original wooden trusses and woodwork are still intact and worth a visit.

Wadhumal Odharam (W.O.) Quarter

Almost the full length of M.A. Jinnah Road (Bunder Road) is a shopping area and the area in the rear of Dense Hall as well as Shara-e-Altaf Husain (Napier Road) is full of wholesale markets, selling a variety of wares.

However, once you enter the narrow streets of Bunder and Old Town Quarters which are in the vicinity, you are likely to lose all track of time. Therefore for serious shopping, you may wish to organize a separate tour of the area.

Karachi Metropolitan Corporation (K.M.C.) Building

Returning to M.A. Jinnah Road (Bunder Road) and proceeding in the direction of Merewether Tower, magnificent pink colored cupolas appear magically above the din and confusion of traffic. The cupola topped towers belong to the most important, and the most impressive Anglo-Mughal edifice that Karachi possesses.

The imposing building, although designed in the late nineteenth century, was not completed until December 1931.

At first the foundation stone was laid in 1895 at another location. After the present site had been chosen, foundations work was taken in hand. Although the foundations were completed in 1915, due to paucity of funds construction work could not be recommenced until 1927. This explains the late arrival of this style in Karachi, when in many parts of the Raj's subcontinent Anglo Mughal palaces and museums had been the rage for almost half a century.

As is often the case with Anglo-Mughal buildings, or Indo Saracenic as the British termed it, the architect James S.C. Wynnes of Edinburgh, employed Renaissance massing but bequeathed the building with an air of Mughal architecture through the employment of cupolas and arches. The predominant use of pink Jodhpur stone has given the building a distinctive air especially in its fine moldings and decorative features. Particularly interesting is the cupola capped tall tower in the centre, providing emphasis to the entrance. The clocks, placed below the cupola on four sides of the central tower, commemorate the silver jubilee of King George V. The large solid corner towers are in marked contrast to the rather transparent quality of the verandahs through the employment of repetitive arched arcading.

If you try to enter in a car you may be stopped at the gate, but if you are on foot you might be able to wander in and enjoy the generous staircase, handsome proportions and grand spaces of its interior.

The skill of the local craftsmen has been well utilized and the detailing of various elements is meticulous. The original wood work, still extant in some of the offices, is also remarkable for its quality and finesse.

Two plaques installed in the entrance lobby give information regarding its construction dates as well as names of those who constructed it. Completed at a total cost of Rs. 1,775,000, the consecration took place on 7th January, 1932 with the prayer: "May all be blessed in this city."

Small Cause Court

A few yards from Karachi Metropolitan Corporation Building, facing M.A. Jinnah Road (Bunder Road), another choice building known as the Small Cause Court is situated. Completed in 1922, it is remarkable for its simplicity of character.

The three-storey building has comparatively little ornamentation but relies for effect on courtly detailing of its openings and unusual semi-circular projecting balconies. Similar balconies were first seen in Quaid-e-Azam House Museum (Flagstaff House), which was built a couple of decades earlier.

The three-storey building is built of dressed Gizri stone. Considering the treatment of the two lower floors which carry semi-circular arches, the top storey carries a disparate treatment with rectangular window openings. The whole ensemble is unified by a sloping roof with overhanging eaves.

Particularly interesting is the central part which carries a delicately detailed semi-circular pedimented opening. Another remarkable feature is the royal crest placed above the arched openings on the first floor, signifying the ceremonial opening by Prince of Wales (later King Edward VIII), which it is reported in contemporary chronicles, he was asked to perform by opening the lock with a golden key.

City Court (Revenue Office)

Turning right on Nanakwara Road from M.A. Jinnah Road (Bunder Road), another vintage building, an almost exact replica of Small Cause Court will be found. This is the City Court (Revenue Office), completed a year after Small Cause Court. Although the City Court is much larger in size than Small Cause Court, with twice the number of window openings, it has fewer balconies.

Another small difference that will be noticed is the employment of triangular pediment in the central part, instead of a semi-circular one employed in the earlier building. Here too, you will find the royal crest above the first floor opening. Although sometimes these buildings are erroneously dated to 1868, however, after piecing their history from various sources including the Civil and Military Reports of the Public Works Department in the British Library, London, Dual City: Karachi During the Raj confirms that the two buildings were constructed during 1919-1923.

Adam Masjid

Returning to M.A. Jinnah Road, on the opposite side of Nanakwara Road from City Courts, is one of the largest congregational mosques in Karachi. An important pre-independence structure built in 1931, the mosque built by the Bohra community acts as a community centre for the whole community.

Jehangir Kothari Building

Returning to M.A. Jinnah Road (Bunder Road), at the road's junction with Shara-e-Altaf Husain (Napier Road), Jahangir Kothari building with its distinctive comer tower will be found. The tower is a scaled down version of the tall clock tower used in James Strachan's Empress Market (see Rahguzar 1 in this chapter). Also reminiscent of another Strachan building, Sindh Madrassah is the arcading of verandahs.

Built in Indo-Gothic style, Jahangir Kothari building has Strachan's signature in its employment of dressed Gizri stone and double columns in the arcading. The building provides the evidence of the rising fortunes of local mercantile community at the end of nineteenth century. It portrays the aspiration of local merchants to employ European architectural forms popularized by British bureaucracy and designers alike.

Max Denso Hall & Library

Situated at the converging comer of M.A. Jinnah Road (Bunder Road) and Marriott Road, across Shara-e-Altaf Husain (Napier Road) from Jehangir Kothari Building is another historic Victorian structure. Clothed in Gothic attire, Denso Hall was designed by James Strachan during his neo-Gothic phase. Although the flourish of Sindh Madrassah building is missing, the attraction of Denso Hall lies in its comparatively simple facade punctuated by balconies with carved balusters and quaint comer turrets.

The building, which was completed in 1886, was described as 'Venetian Gothic' in contemporary accounts. Gizri stone, which was Strachan's favorite material because of its easy availability and relatively good weathering quality, has been used in walls and delicate moldings, with fine effect.

The building was built in memory of Max Denso, remembered by Alexander Baillie in 1889 as a "well known resident, [who] had a kindly regard to the improvement of the mind of his fellow citizens." A sum of Rs. 9,000 was collected by his friends for the construction of this building, while the Municipality allocated the site on what was a fast-developing road at the time. Bunder Road, or M.A. Jinnah Road as it is known today. The Municipality also contributed additional funds in order to provide the facility of a public hall, reading room and library in the area close to the 'Old Town' for the use of local residents.

The clock seen on the east facade was a gift of Rao Sahib Ramdas Morarji, a prominent citizen of the city.

Tour Route 1

Tour Route 2

Tour Route 3

Tour Route 4

Tour Route 5

Tour Route 6