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Broad
Peak (originally
named K3) is the
12th highest
mountain on Earth
and 4th highest in
Pakistan. Broad Peak
is part of the
Gasherbrum massif
and is about 8
kilometres (5 miles)
from K2. Broad Peak
was originally named
K3 right after the
naming of K2 but on
closer inspection by
a later party, it
was discovered that
the summit was over
1½ kilometres (1
mile) long, thus
"Broad Peak". Broad
Peak is known
locally as Faichan
Kangri. The literal
translation of
"Broad Peak" to
Phalchan Kangri is
not accepted among
the Baltis.
The first ascent of
Broad Peak was made
on June 9, 1957 by
Fritz Wintersteller,
Marcus Schmuck, Kurt
Diemberger, and
Hermann Buhl of an
Austrian expedition
led by Marcus
Schmuck. A first
attempt by the team
was made on May 29
where Fritz
Wintersteller and
Kurt Diemberger
reached the forepeak
(8,030m). This was
also accomplished
without the aid of
supplemental oxygen
or high altitude
porters and without
base camp support.
On the same
expedition, Marcus
Schmuck and Fritz
Wintersteller made a
flash first ascent
of Skil Brum peak
(7,360m) on June 19,
1957 in pure Alpine
style in 53 hours.
Hermann Buhl fell to
his death when he
and Diemberger
attempted to climb
nearby Chogolisa
peak (7,654m) on
June 27, 1957.
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