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Chogolisa (or Bride
Peak) is a mountain
in the Karakoram
region of Pakistan.
It lies near the
Baltoro Glacier in
the Concordia region
which is home to
some of the highest
peaks of the world.
Chogolisa has
several peaks, the
highest on the SW
face (Chogolisa I)
rises to 7,665
metres (25,147 ft.).
The second highest
at 7,654 metres on
the NE side
(Chogolisa II) is
the one named Bride
Peak by Martin
Conway in 1892.
In 1909, a party led
by Duke of the
Abruzzi reached
7,498m from a base
camp located on the
northern side and a
high camp on the
Chogolisa saddle at
6,335m. Bad weather
stopped the party
from ascending
further.
Hermann Buhl and
Kurt Diemberger
attempted Chogolisa
in 1957 after they
had successfully
summitted Broad Peak
a few weeks earlier.
On June 25 they left
camp I and camped in
a saddle at 6,706m
on the SW ridge. Bad
weather forced them
to retreat and on
June 27, Buhl fell
through a cornice
and disappeared. His
body has never been
found.
In 1958, a Japanese
expedition from
Kyoto University led
by T. Kawabara made
the first ascent of
Chogolisa II,
placing M. Fujihira
and K. Hirai on top.
The first ascent of
Chogolisa I was made
on August 2, 1975 by
Fred Pressl and
Gustav Ammerer of an
Austrian expedition
led by Eduard
Koblmuller.
Koblmuller almost
suffered the same
fate as Buhl, as he
also fell through a
cornice on the
ascent; fortunately,
he was roped and
team members were
able to pull him to
safety.
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