Boots

• Full Grain is the outermost part of the cow's hide; it is the stiffest, most waterproof type of leather. It is sometimes turned inside-out (rough-out) so the smooth, outer layer won't get nicked or scratched.
• The The Upper part of the boot should have as few seams as possible. A one-piece upper is more water resistant.
• A Gusset is a thin piece of flexible leather sewn to both the tongue and the upper. It keeps out water and stones. A "bellows" tongue has wide gussets, allowing it to open further so it is easy to put on. Some boots have two "overlapping" tongues, each connected to one side.
• The The Back-Stay is a strip of leather sewn over the back seam. If it gets torn or chafed, it is almost impossible to replace. For that reason, it should be as narrow as possible.
• A Welt is the stitch which connects the upper sole. A Norwegian welt is double-stitched, strong and stiff. Other welts are not as strong but allow more flexibility.
• A Rand is a wide rubber strip protecting the stitching that holds the upper to the sole.
• The Sole has three parts: a padded "footbed" just below your foot, an "insole" below the footbed and an "outsole" on the bottom. The insole can be soft and flexible for light hiking, or it can be stiffened with a half- or full-length "shank" (sheet) of plastic or steel for added support. The sole is made of rubber (Vibram is a type of stiff hard rubber) with a "lug" pattern designed for gripping the path. Deep lugs are best for steep rugged terrain, while shallow lug patterns are lighter and more flexible.

Backpacks

The best contemporary backpacks are virtually bespoke garments compared to the off-the-rack, one-size-fits-most models of yesteryear. Of utmost importance here is torso length, so the pack rests just right on your hips without doing a potato-sack number on your shoulders. It shouldn't sag, nor rest so high it squeezes your kidneys.

Besides overall pack sizes, the best packs offer different sizes of hipbelts and shoulder straps.

Walk around carrying the pack, loaded with the full amount of weight you intend to carry on the trail. You'll feel the best pack grab onto your back like a pet monkey, with no discernible hot spots, and the load will feel so perfectly distributed that you'll wonder if you forgot something. You should be able to sashay your hips freely, swing your shoulders fully, and raise your legs without ever feeling drawn off balance.

Sleeping Bags

Getting cold in the middle of the night, or so hot and sweaty that you can't sleep, doesn't necessarily mean you didn't buy a good sleeping bag. More likely, you just bought the wrong sleeping bag. Since there are literally hundreds of models of sleeping bags available, perhaps even thousands, this happens more often than you would think.

While it is always important to consider how you plan to use equipment, sleeping bags tend to be more of a general-purpose general purchase. However, if you are planning on serious winter camping (in very cold weather) or mountaineering, you may well want to invest in a winter bag that is rated to twenty or thirty degrees below zero, in addition to a lighter bag for three-season use. Alternatively, some bags offer zip-out linings, so you have a double bag for cold weather, and your choice of the lining or outer bag for warmer conditions.

In general, three-season bags are rated to about 20 degrees above zero, which will work for warm conditions and usually be sufficient for brisk spring and fall nights. However, remember that there is no universal standard for bag rating. Also, people sleep at different temperatures, so while a 20-degree bag might keep your companion warm on a cold night, you might freeze in the same bag.

When you buy a bag, a good rule of thumb is to think about the coldest condition you might experience, and then drop down ten or twenty degrees. Keep in mind that it is more difficult to stay warm in an insufficiently insulated bag than it is to vent a bag designed for cooler temperatures. A bag rated to zero is usually a good choice, since it will keep you warm on unexpectedly cold nights, but can be zipped open for venting.

Tents

Selecting a tent can be confusing. Get the right tent, and you can expect years of leakless shelter from any storm you might encounter. Get a tent that isn't durable enough for your needs, or one that is so overbuilt you could use it on K2, and you'd probably be financially better off if you had opted for expensive hotels instead of camping.

The tent you buy depends on where, when, and with how many people you'll camp.

Bicycles

The modern bicycle boom has produced a plethora of designs that can leave first-time buyers extremely confused. Mountain bikes and racing bikes are wildly in, but which do I need? Or would I do better with something else, even if it's not quite so trendy?

The answer, obviously, depends on what you want to do with your new bicycle. If you're fired up from watching Olympic racers, you may indeed want a racing bike. For trail riding, a mountain bike is obviously a necessity. But most people actually use their bicycles for activities more appropriately classified as "touring."

Touring is pleasure-riding where the aim is principally to explore the terrain near your home, or on vacation. Zipping along effortlessly is part of the fun, but there's no need to coax the last iota of speed out of your machine; that just distracts from watching the scenery or talking to friends. When touring, you also need to be able to sit comfortably on your machine for the duration of your outing, whether it's 10 miles or 100 miles.

Life Jackets

Civilians call them life jackets; the Coast Guard calls them Personal Flotation Devices, or PFDs. However you refer to them, they should be worn at all times while on the water, and should probably be the first piece of equipment you buy as you start to get serious about paddle sports.

Outerwear

Consider your activity menu. If you're going to be climbing, remember that you need a coat that won't interfere with your harness. Select one with a high waist, or one that rides low on the hips. Bring your harness along when you are shopping, just to make sure they work together. Second, you'll need articulated sleeves that are cut to accommodate a bent-arm position. If the coat is built correctly, the bottom hem stays down around your hips when your arms are raised, and your wrists stay covered, no matter how you position your arms.