Tour Route 2

This Tour Route combines parts of two prestigious areas—Civil Lines Quarter and Old Clifton.

Civil Lines Quarter

During the nineteenth century. Civil Lines was the preserve of the rulers. This is the Quarter where the Government House, the residence of the Lat Sahib (Lord Sahib) (now Sindhh Governor's House), the Collector's Kutchery (now Commissioner's Office), the Garrison Church, the Clubs (Sindh Club and Karachi Gymkhana) considered the bastion of elitism, and the 'whites only' town hall (Frere Hall) were constructed.

With an extremely low density—at one person per acre noted in 1889—there were sprawling compounds, where the rulers could easily recreate a make-believe world. The facilities available at Karachi allowed them to live comfortably and enjoy social activities and sports in the company of fellow Europeans, away from the untidiness, the dirt and, come the last quarter of the nineteenth century, even the mounting criticism of their rule by the natives. Civil Lines continues to retain its character, aloof from the remaining, more disadvantaged parts of the city.

Old Clifton

This Quarter is located at some distance from Civil Lines Quarter, but enjoyed an equally privileged status as the latter Quarter. During the early days of the 'conquest', this detached and remote island, as it then was, was used as a sanitarium or health resort for the Raj's hard-worked officials. After the First World War, it became a popular rendezvous for evening rides in American cars, and was referred to as 'The Brighton of Karachi'. During the 1920s and 1930s it developed into a fashionable residential area for prominent and wealthy natives. The Old Clifton buildings that you will visit in this Tour Route belong to that period.

Tour Route 2 will take you through the most affluent residential part of Karachi. Tree-lined streets provide access to bungalows in large compounds. The main thoroughfare here is Khayaban-e-Iqbal  popularly still referred to by its old name of Clifton Road a major stretch of which is lined with expensive shopping centers. Clifton Road provides access to the up market shopping district of Zamzama Boulevard and the up and coming Shopping Malls of Old Clifton, near Jahangir Kothari Parade, if you turn left and right respectively from the monument known as Do Talwar (Two Swords).

Civil Lines Quarter

Quaid-e-Azam House Museum (Flagstaff House)

Located directly opposite the contemporary tower of Avari Towers Hotel on the border of Civil Lines and Cantonment, well set back from the road and partially concealed by enormous banyan trees, is this charming building which was earlier known as Flag staff House. This sprawling property is located in Karachi Cantonment, on the border of Civil Lines. Once inside its gate, you will enjoy its spacious lawns, beautifully detailed facade and old Colonial interiors, lovingly and authentically restored to display relics and furniture belonging to the Father of the Nation, Muhammad Ali Jinnah.

Although sometimes erroneously dated to 1865, the house was built in the last decade of the nineteenth century and was designed by Moses Somake, who later became a well-known member of Society of Architects. Somake had the habit of signing his buildings by inscribing his name in an obscure place and if you took the trouble you will find his name etched on an inner face of the porch.

This double-storey bungalow is Somak'e first known commission and was built during the last decade of the nineteenth century, while the single storey annexes is a later addition. You will notice that Somake has lavished most of his attention on the facade facing Fatima Jinnah Road (Bonus Road), which was the main thorough fare at the time.

The frontage has a symmetrical arrangement, with two wings flanking the central porch that carries the projecting part of the verandah. Finely chiseled and carved features embellish this facade, while the rest of the building is in hammer-dressed stone masonry. An unusual element is the introduction of semi-circular balconies, which appear in the City Court and Small Cause Court buildings couple of decades later.

The story of this historic building from residential use to its conservation and re-use as a museum makes interesting reading. The house had been owned by the Parsi magnate Sorab Kavasji Katrak, and had been requisitioned as the residence of General Hind, G.O.C. when it was visited by Jinnah who decided to acquire it. The deed of purchase in the name of 'Mr. Mahomedali Jinnah, Barrister-at-Law, Bombay' was registered in March 1944. After Independence (1947), the bungalow was furnished with the belongings and furniture of Jinnah that had been brought from his Delhi and Bombay residences, and was kept in readiness for his retirement.

After the death of Governor-General Jinnah (1948), his sister Mohtarma Fatima Jinnah lived in the house from 1948 to 1964. She was herself an important political figure, who fought valiantly, though unsuccessfully for the establishment of a democratic government.

During the general elections of 1965, Flagstaff House served as the headquarters of the Combined Opposition Parties (C.O.P.) which included many prominent political figures, including Khwaja Nazimuddin, Maulana Maudoodi and Justice Z.H. Lari. The symbol of the C.O.P., the lantern depicting 'the flame of democracy', lay in the compound of the bungalow for many years.

However, during the late nineteen sixties and seventies, when many such historic structures, for reason of belonging to the Colonial period, faced extinction, for a time it seemed that this house would also be destroyed.

Due to the prime location of the site, several organizations were interested in acquiring the property—not for conservation but for demolishing and building anew—and at least three different bids from influential quarters were made to acquire the property. Due to political turmoil, fortunately a deal could not be struck.

The bungalow lay neglected until 1985, when, as a result of representation by Heritage Foundation, it was acquired by the Government of Pakistan, restored and declared a national monument as Quaid-e-Azam House Museum. The house provides an exciting and appropriate setting for relics of the founder of the nation, at the same time brings to life the nostalgic aura of the Colonial period.

Sindh Club

As you turn south from Club Road (Scandal Point Road) on Abdullah Haroon Road (Victoria Road), partially hidden behind the foliage and the high boundary wall, you will see the most famous club of Karachi. This is the Sindh Club, the most conspicuous symbol of the British Raj. Almost as exclusive as it was during the pre-Independence days, Sindhh Club remains the bastion of the privileged and is open only to its limited membership. This Club, with its well-tended lawns and garden full of blooming flowers, is like a haven in the dusty environment of Karachi.

The main building, which houses the dining room, is one of the most pleasing that Karachi has to offer. It was designed in a Southern Italian Style, a style also employed in Strachan's Eduiji Dinshaw Dispensary, by a committee member Le Mesurier of the Bombay Engineers. When completed in November 1883, it was considered a 'princely residence' by its members.

The building sits comfortably in its spacious grounds, its facade employing simple arcading which is composed of Roman arches on ground and first floors, and terminating in pitched roofs. An extension to the Club facilities constructed in 1888 follows the Indo-Italianate style of the original structure.

These Club buildings are provided with a generous set back from the road, creating a feeling of exclusiveness and inaccessibility, even though the architectural style is informal and does not rely on pediments and porticoes for effect.

One of the residential blocks built in 1915, known as the 'Millionaires Quarters', carries semicircular openings on both ground and first floors, with rectangular openings on the top storey. The design is compatible, even if it does not slavishly follow the original building.

Some other Club additions, carried out after Independence, do not necessarily demonstrate the same sensitivity towards the original historic structure.

Being a private club, you will need permission to enter, but it is worth a try. The old world atmosphere of the Colonial period still lingers in its verandahs, and it is a joy to just sit there and enjoy its ambiance.

State Guest House

Just opposite Sindhh Club, in a large compound stands an extremely attractive, important historic building which was the residence of the first Prime Minister of Pakistan, Liaquat Ali Khan. Later, the building also served as Sindhh Governor's house.

Presently used as the State Guest House, the facade of the building seen from the garden presents Italian Renaissance arcading with good effect. The tall verandah portico also faces the garden and provides an effective cadence.

The gardens are well maintained and if you can get permission, it is worthwhile going inside to enjoy this remarkable building. Due to the timely intervention by Heritage Foundation, this building was saved from demolition and conserved during the early 1980s. Once again, in 1998, due to the representation by the Foundation, its sale by the government, which would have meant its destruction, was successfully stopped.

In close proximity of the State Guest House is the contemporary building of the Consulate General of United States of America, which was designed by the American architect Richard Neutra, well known for the design of elegant houses.

Frere Hall

From the State Guest House, proceeding in the direction of Clifton, you can not but be taken aback on sighting the looming towers of Frere Hall, Karachi's one time equivalent of a town hall. You will be fascinated by this incredible Victorian Gothic structure and might even question its presence as Richard Burton did in 1877: "We cannot but regard this Gothic monster with a kind of what-the-Dickens-are-you-doing-here? feeling." To him the building was 'Veneto Gothic', "so fit for Venice, so unfit for Karachi."

Over the years the 'Veneto Gothic' Frere Hall, with its many incongruous features and steeply sloping roof—more appropriate for icy England than hot humid Karachi—has become one of the best loved buildings of the city. As the first 'Indo-Gothic' building built for civic use, it familiarized Karachi with the influence of Pugin and Ruskin prevalent in England at the time.

The Hall, built to commemorate the services of Bartle Frere, the dynamic 'Commissioner-in-Sindh' to whom the modernization of Sindh is often attributed, was built at a cost of Rs. 180,000, the highest amount spent on a building built in Karachi until that time. In the design competition the entry submitted by Henry St. Clair Wilkins of the Royal Bombay Engineers, was chosen. Although this was the first major commission for Wilkins, he later designed several important buildings in Bombay. Wilkins won laurels during the Abbyssinia Campaign (1869) and was later honored by being appointed A.D.C. to the Queen.

The construction of Frere Hall began in August 1863, and although not yet complete, it was opened on October 10,1865, by the 'Commissioner-in-Scinde', S. Mansfield, after whom a major street of Karachi would be named.

Later in January 1867, a Durbar was held in the Hall, presided by Bartle Frere, who now held the important position of Governor of Bombay Presidency. On completion the ground floor of the building was utilized as the first museum and municipal library of Karachi. At the time the building was accessible to Europeans only, and the hall was a popular venue for theatricals and dances.

The surrounding lawn of the Hall at the time were adorned with statues of Queen Victoria which stood in the Queen's Lawn facing Abdullah Haroon Road (Victoria Road) and King Edward VII on the King's lawn facing Fatima Jinnah Road (Bonus Road), no longer extant as they were removed some years ago.

For provincial Karachi, the building was a landmark. Built primarily of buff color stone quarried from nearby Gizri, a poly chromatic effect in the columns and voussoirs of the pointed arches is created by using different colored stones. The spire let and the octagonal tower are covered with what was known as 'Muntz's Metal'. The deep verandahs of the hall, which employ pointed arches, provide shade from the strong afternoon sun, reflecting an understanding of the local climatic requirements.

The Hall is definitely worth a visit. Since it is a public building, there is no restriction on entry. If you are on foot you can enter the grounds from Abdullah Haroon Road; however, if you would like to drive in, you will find the entry located on Fatima Jinnah Road (Bonus Road), a road parallel to Abdullah Haroon Road.

An impressive wooden staircase, leads to the first floor. The lofty hall, with its handsome proportions and the beautiful wooden balcony overlooking it, provides a pleasurable experience. The ceiling of the first floor hall is adorned by an enormous mural painted by one of Pakistan's foremost artists, Sadequain. The hall, now known as Galerie Sadequain, is extensively used for mounting exhibitions.

The ground floor is still used as a library and the reading room can be accessed from its southern verandah. Across Abdullah Haroon Road (Victoria Road) are located the newly constructed Country Office of ABN AMRO Bank faced in buff-cloured Gizri stone, and Marriott Hotel, one of the major international hotels of the city.

Baluch Monument

A walk on Fatima Jinnah Road (Bonus Road), a street which was under the exclusive use.. of the top army brass during the nineteenth century, is a pleasant experience.

At one of the gates of Frere Hall is located the pink Jodhpur stone Baluch Monument erected in the memory of casualties of First World War. The memorial is dedicated to those belonging to Duke of Connaught's Own Baluchis, King George's Own Baluchis, Duchess of Connaught's Own Baluchis, Baluchistan Infantry and Queen Mary's Own Baluch Light Infantry.

If Heritage Foundation's proposal for the creation of Frere Hall Cultural Precinct is implemented by the Government, this historically important street will become the focus of sidewalk cafes, artists' and artisans fairs and other festivities, and could develop into one of the most enjoyable pedestrian zed tourist areas of the city.

Mansions

Across Frere Hall and facing Fatima Jinnah Road (Bonus Road) you will find several historic mansions in sprawling grounds which date from early 20th century. You will not be permitted to enter since they are private residences, but the eclectic facades of these palatial houses, including that of U.S. Consul General's Residence, are a treat.

Cantonment Railway Station

Continuing south on Fatima Jinnah Road (Bonus Road), at some distance from the Frere Hall, the Cantonment Railway Station is situated. The building itself is impressive due to its size, the pediment centre and end towers capped by Romanesque gables. The Roman arch arcading lends it an air of simplicity and grace. The building was built in 1898 and was among the two buildings, the other being Eduiji Dinshaw Wing at Lady Dufferin Hospital that were completed at the end of the century.

Cantonment Railway Station (Cantt. Station, as it is popularly known) is located at the southernmost end of Civil Lines Quarter convenient access from the more exclusive areas of the city having been an important consideration at the time.

Bristol Hotel

Before returning to Khayaban-e-Iqbal (Clifton Road), traveling on the road next to the railway line at the junction of Sunnyside Road you will find one of the most interesting hotel buildings of Karachi. The Bristol hotel with its elegant Italian Renaissance facade was built in 1910, and was one of four railway hotels of the city. The others being North Western, Carlton and Killarney Hotels, all built close to the railway line to provide accommodation to visitors arriving in Karachi by train. North Western and Carlton are no longer extant, while Killarney Hotel has been converted into a Consulate. Bristol Hotel, continues as a hotel in name alone, although the building is still in a good condition.

The Bristol was the first three-storey building in the prestigious Civil Lines Quarter. It was originally built as a mansion for a wealthy Parsi, which no doubt accounts for the spaciousness of its accommodation and its generous balconies facing the prevailing breeze. Contemporary accounts praise the "excellent cuisine" and the efficient management of Mr. Wysman who took over the Bristol in 1921, having served as manager of the United Services Club at Simla for eleven years. Although in an extremely neglected condition, the detailing of the facade with its carved balusters and excellent woodwork bring back the aura of bygone days.

Old Clifton

In order to view some vintage buildings located by the sea, you will need to continue southwards on Khayaban-e-Iqbal (Clifton Road) over the old Clifton Bridge dating from the early part of this century, and under the recently built steel overhead bridge. Just beyond the bridge, on the left, well set back from the road, is the striking building of the head office of Pakistan State Oil Company, known as PSO House. Its front piazza with fountains is welcoming and if you can get permission to enter its five-storey high entrance atrium, the capsule lifts will provide you with an exciting panorama of Karachi's seascape.

The main road will take you past the monument known as Teen Talwar (Three Swords) (commemorating Quaid-e-Azam Jinnah's motto of faith, discipline and unity), and the expensive shopping district of Clifton beyond. You can stop and stroll around scores of shops offering a variety of merchandise.

A few blocks away, on the same road and past the contemporary building of Mideast Hospital, you will arrive at another monument known as Do Talwar (Two Swords) (commemorating the 1965 war with India). At this junction you should take the left fork which is the continuation of Khayaban-e-Iqbal (Clifton Road) and is a broad tree-lined avenue.

Mohatta Palace

As you reach the crossing of Khayaban-e-Iqbal (Clifton Road) with Hatim Alvi Road, you cannot but be struck by the quaint pink cupolas that become visible on your right. This is the famed pink mansion known as Mohatta Palace.

Much admired for its lively Mughal air, Mohatta Palace is also known as Qasr-e-Fatima because of its association with Mohtarma Fatima Jinnah, the sister of the founder of Pakistan. Fatima Jinnah lived in this house from 1964 until her death in 1967.

After Fatima Jinnah, who had earlier been living in Flagstaff House (presently Quaid-e-Azam House Museum), moved to this house, all of Governor- General Jinnah's furniture was also moved here for her use.

After Fatima's death, the first floor, which had been in use by her, was sealed, and the ground floor was given in possession of Fatima's sister Shirin Bai. After Shirin Bai's death, the building remained sealed until 1990, when relics of Quaid-e-Azam Jinnah were moved to Quaid-e-Azam House Museum.

The palatial mansion of Mohatta Palace was lovingly built near the Arabian Sea in the late 1920s by an eccentric millionaire Shiv Rattan Mohatta. Unfortunately, he was hardly able to enjoy it for two decades when the political upheaval in the subcontinent forced him to leave Karachi.

Mohatta Palace had been built with carefully selected materials at a time when money appeared to be no object. Built mainly of fine ashlar local Gizri stone of a pale buff color, the carved stone features such as the brackets, chajjas, spandrels, balcony balustrades and pilasters use Jodhpur stone, imbuing the whole building with a pink hue. The cupolas are constructed of concrete and were given a colour matching the Jodhpur stone.

The building is a tour de force of Ahmad Husain Agha, the architect of Hindu Gymkhana built a few years earlier, who designed this mansion also in the Mughal revival style of the Gymkhana building.

Although the mansion is disparate in its massing compared to the earlier building, several of the latter's features are employed here as well. The four octagonal towers, although treated differently in the lower part, have upper portion designed in the same manner, terminating with similar projecting balconies and chattries. The use of carved motifs borrowed from Sultanate-period Samma tombs at Makli Hill, show Agha's growing confidence. The crowning glory of the building is a multi-dome arrangement of the roof of the baradari atop the building.

Heritage Foundation's recommendations, put forward in its Conservation Report prepared in 1989, to declare the mansion a museum, was finally accepted by Muzaffar Husain Shah, Chief Minister, Sindhh, in 1991. In 1994, the Foundation's proposal to create a 'Save Mohatta Palace Fund' resulted in the Federal Government providing funding for the restoration of this important landmark of Karachi.

It has recently been refurbished. Although made to look rather new, Agha's building provides an impressive setting for gallery displays.

Jehangir Kothari Cluster

If you proceed on Hatim Alvi Road in the direction of the sea, the historic Jehangir Kothari Cluster, unfolds iteself and comes into prominence.

The Cluster consists of three distinct elements: Jehangir Kothari Parade, Lady Lloyd Pier and Jehangir Kothari Pavilion. These structures are a lasting reminder of the generosity of the Parsi philanthropist. Sir Jehangir Kothari, who gifted a parcel of land and donation of funds for the recreation of Karachi's residents.

The plaque located at the entrance to the Parade informs: "The munificence of Jehangir H. Kothari, QBE, by the gift of this valuable site and adjoining plot of land, made possible the creation of this Parade." Designed by E.B. Hoare, the Parade and Pier were built in 1919-1923.

The whole area is particularly lively during the evenings when Karachi-ites flock to enjoy the pleasant prevailing breeze of the sea. Small restaurants and handcart vendors provide snacks and refreshments to visitors.

Across Shahrah-e-Firdousi, the interesting contemporary building of Park Towers, with its shopping mall and a number of international fast food outlets, has made the area into a popular meeting place.

Jehangir Kothari Parade

The first element of this historic cluster is Jehangir Kothari Parade which is placed parallel to the sea. It consists of a single storey Parade Pavilion located on the left of the Pier, and a Walkway. The elegant rectangular open pavilion, with a five arched facade facing the road on one side and sea on the other, carries a projecting chajja and flat roof. An unhindered view of the sea from the shelter of this pavilion is particularly pleasant.

The Walkway is defined by carved balustrading using Jodhpur stone coping and extends on either side of the Pier to a total length of over 600 feet. Where Jahangir Kothari Pavilion is constructed entirely of pink Jodhpur stone, a combination of pink Jodhpur and buff colored Gizri stone, with good effect, is used in the Parade pavilion and Walkway. Steps from the Promenade lead down to an enormous park known as Bagh-e-Ibn-e-Qasim, which is maintained by Karachi Metropolitan Corporation.

Lady Lloyd Pier. The second element of the historic cluster, the Pier, is named after Lady Lloyd, the wife of Bombay Governor George Ambrose Lloyd. It was Lady Lloyd, who, captivated by Karachi's sea air, had expressed the desire to be able to walk to the ocean, and thus became the motivating force behind the project.

The pier is designed at right angles to the Parade Walkway, and extends over 1200 feet towards the sea. In the evening a walk on the gradually descending pier, as you proceed towards the sea, is an exhilarating experience.

The plaques at the beginning of the Pier records: "Lady Lloyd Pier. Inspired by her Excellency the Hon. Lady Lloyd this promenade was constructed at a cost of Rs. 3 lakh and donated to the public of Karachi by Jehangir Kothari, OBE, to whose generosity and public spirit this gift is due."

Jehangir Kothari Pavilion. The most prominent element of Jehangir Kothari cluster, although the last to be constructed, is the elegant bandstand pavilion with its striking cupola of pink Jodhpur stone, located at the western end of the Cluster.

Raised on a podium approximately 20 feet high, this pavilion, originally used as a bandstand, dominates the environment and allows you to enjoy a breathtaking view of the sea and surroundings. The four corners of the podium are defined by tall pillars topped by carved motifs, while carved balustrading and battered podium walls of Gizri stone complete the ensemble.

The bandstand was constructed in 1926 by another Parsi philanthropist, Sir Kavasji Katrak, mentioned earlier in connection with Quaid-e-Azam House Museum (Flagstaff House) at the beginning of this Tour Route.

Mausoleum of Saint Abdullah Shah Ghazi

To approach the Mausoleum of Hazrat Abdullah Shah Ghazi you will need to proceed east on Shahrah-e-Firdousi. Until the late nineteenth century, this mausoleum was the only building on the hillock in Clifton. The original mazaar (mausoleum) is long gone, a contemporary tall square structure with a green cupola having taken its place.

The shrine, which dominates the surrounding area, is approached by a long climb of steps. This is the burial place of one of the most revered Sufi saints of Sindhh, Hazrat Abdullah Shah Ghazi, who escaped to Sindh during the reign of Abbasid Caliph al-Mansur. The shrine has a large number of devotees flocking every day to his mazaar (mausoleum) to offer fateha (prayers). It is estimated that visitors to the shrine number over 10,000 on weekends.

Along the base of the shrine, the road side is lined with many flower shops selling garlands and rose-petals, which are traditionally taken as an offering when visiting graves and tomb. On Thursday evenings the whole area reverberates with the sound of qawwali, mystic music renderings, which are sung by devotional singers at the mausoleum—a genre of music made popular in the West by the late Nusrat Fateh Ali Khan. Visiting the shrine is a most moving experience for those who are spiritually inclined.

All visitors are welcome at the mausoleum as long as they show due reverence. Women are expected to be modestly dressed, with heads, legs and arms fully covered. Shoes must be removed before entering the sepulchral chamber.

Beware of beggars, who flock to the shrine to avail of the free distribution of food provided by the devotees.

Tour Route 1

Tour Route 2

Tour Route 3

Tour Route 4

Tour Route 5

Tour Route 6